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Basic V-Neck Crochet Sweater: Free Pattern in Sizes XS – 5XL

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If you’re looking for a free, beginner-friendly, quick, super squishy, size-inclusive, v-neck crochet sweater pattern – you have hit gold, my friend! The Basic V-Neck sweater crochet pattern is all of the above, and then some. 😉

basic v-neck sweater crochet pattern

Basic V-Neck Crochet Sweater

The Basic V-Neck Sweater is the perfect accessory for spring and/or fall. Make it sleeveless for summer (which creates short sleeves – see photo below), or full length sleeves for those chillier days. Featuring a simple-to-crochet and nearly seamless design, this sweater is flattering – and most importantly – comfy to wear.

gorgeous, easy crochet sweater

v-neck crochet sweater

We are using a medium/size 4/worsted weight yarn for this sweater. The blue in photos is Lion Brand Wool Ease in “succulent”, the green is Brava Worsted in “Avocado”, and the grey is Soft & Sleek in “Light Grey”.

basic v-neck sweater crochet pattern

You could use a worsted weight cotton to make this as well. It would be a bit cooler to wear in the summer, and I think I may whip one up myself just to see!

v-neck sweater crochet pattern

basic v-neck sweater crochet pattern

We are using a large crochet hook paired with a worsted weight yarn to make this basic v-neck sweater. If you’re one that can’t stand clothing creeping up on your neck, or you get hot easily, this combination takes the comfort level of this design over the top. This is definitely a beginner-friendly wearable pattern!

You may want to head over and check out the Trinity Stitch tutorial before you get started. It is not difficult. In fact, it consists of just single crochets and chains, but in a way that creates this stunning effect.

Basic V crochet sweater

Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here, or purchase the ad-free PDF printable pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, or in the Heart Hook Home shop. Thank you!

Sizing: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Basic V Neck Sweater Sizing

Materials:

Worsted Weight yarn (see more specific recommendations above)
-approx. (600, 700, 835, 860, 875, 900, 1050, 1150, 1250) yards
(w/o sleeves)
-approx. (800, 900, 1030, 1170, 1250, 1275, 1350, 1500, 1600) yards
(*including sleeves)

Crochet hook in size 9mm

Crochet hook in size 6.5mm

Gauge:

Trinity Stitch = 11 sts x 10 rows = 4” square (with 9mm hook)

Pattern for gauge:

Row 1: Ch-12, sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc3tog using same as last sc and next two chs. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st and next 2 chs * repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (11)

Rows 2 – 10: Ch-1, turn, sc in first. sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp * repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (11)

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written using US terms.

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Pattern is worked in vertical rows. Odd numbered rows are “right side”.

The ch-1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.

If you would like a longer sweater, adding 20 sts to the beginning chain will add ~4”. This adds 10 sts before the neck opening and 10 sts after the neck opening.

Find the CHILD sizes of this pattern right here.

free kids sweater crochet pattern

Pattern:

Row 1: Starting with a ~30” tail, and the 9mm hook, Ch-(116, 116, 122, 122, 122, 122, 126, 130, 130) sc in 2nd ch from hook, Sc3tog using same as last sc and next two chs. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st and next 2 chs * repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (115, 115, 121, 121, 121, 121, 125, 129, 129)

Rows 2 – (18, 20, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36, 40): Ch-1, turn, sc in first. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp * repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (115, 115, 121, 121, 121, 121, 125, 129, 129)

Row (19, 21, 25, 27, 31, 33, 35, 37, 41): Ch-1, turn, sc in first. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp * repeat between * * (17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 18, 19, 19) more times. Sc in same as last st. Do not fasten off, but mark with a st marker. (39, 39, 39, 39, 39, 39, 41, 43, 43 sts so far for “1st half”). Sk-(37, 37, 43, 43, 43, 43, 43, 43, 43) sts (neckhole) and attach in next st with a new ball of yarn. Ch-1, sc in same. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. Repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (39, 39, 39, 39, 39, 39, 41, 43, 43 sts for “2nd half”)

First half finished.

Attaching for second half.

Row (20, 22, 26, 28, 32, 34, 36, 38, 42): Ch-1, turn, sc in first. sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp * repeat between * * (17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 18, 19, 19) more times. Sc in same as last st. (39, 39, 39, 39, 39, 39, 41, 43, 43 sts so far). Ch-(37, 37, 43, 43, 43, 43, 43, 43, 43). Sc in next st of “1st half”. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. Repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (115, 115, 121, 121, 121, 121, 125, 129, 129)

Ready to chain for neck hole.

Neck hole completed!

Row (21, 23, 27, 29, 33, 35, 37, 39, 43): Ch-1, turn, sc in first. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch/ch-sp * repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (115, 115, 121, 121, 121, 121, 125, 129, 129)

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Rows (22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40, 44) – (39, 43, 51, 55, 63, 67, 71, 75, 83): Ch-1, turn, sc in first. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp * repeat between * * to end. Sc in same as last st. (115, 115, 121, 121, 121, 121, 125, 129, 129) Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming.

*A few rows past the neck opening, you can go ahead and do the single crochet edging so you can clip that yarn. Just don’t weave in the end quite yet!

Neck edging: Where still attached at the neck, and using the 6.5mm hook, use that yarn to sc around the entire opening.

Seam both sides (using the beginning tail and the end tail), leaving (31, 33, 35, 37, 41, 45, 51, 55, 57) sts unworked. Do not fasten in ends yet. (We’ll use those to cinch up holes after finishing the sleeves).

You may choose to not weave in the neck edging end yet, in case you decide to do another row, or to go down another hook size for that one single crochet row (if the opening is a bit to big for your taste).

Bottom Edging:

Using the 6.5mm hook, attach at either side seam. Ch-1, sc in each row end around sweater bottom. Join. (80, 84, 104, 112, 128, 136, 144, 152, 168)

Row 1: Ch-11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. Sl st to top of corresponding st on sweater body. (10)

Row 2: Sl st to top of next st on sweater body, turn. Sc in BLO in first 9 sts, sc in both top loops of last st. (10)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in BLO of each st to end. Sl st to top of corresponding st on sweater body. (10)

Rows 4 – (81, 85, 105, 113, 129, 137, 145, 153, 169): Alternate rows 2 & 3 around the entire bottom of the sweater. Fasten off and sew stitch for stitch closed.

If you are choosing to leave off the sleeves, you’re done! 🙌

Sleeves:

Looking at the inside, attach in the chain st (not a sc) to the left of the seam. (see photo)

Round 1: Ch-1, sc in same. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp * repeat between * * around. Ch-1, join to top of first sc. (31, 33, 35, 37, 41, 45, 51, 55, 57)

Rounds 2 – (32, 32, 32, 30, 28, 28, 28, 28, 28): Ch-1, turn, sc in first st. Sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp. * ch-1, sc3tog using same as last st, top of next st, and next ch-sp * repeat between * * around. Ch-1, join to top of first sc. (31, 33, 35, 37, 41, 45, 51, 55, 57)

Switch to the 6.5mm hook to start the cuff…

Round (33, 33, 33, 31, 29, 29, 29, 29, 29): Ch-1, do not turn, sc in each st around. Join to top of first sc. (31, 33, 35, 37, 41, 45, 51, 55, 57)

Round (34, 34, 34, 32, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30): Ch-1, do not turn, * sc2tog, sc in next * repeat between * * around. Sc2tog in last 2 sts. Join to top of first sc. (21, 22, 23, 25, 27, 30, 34, 37, 38)

Sizes XS, S, M, L: Do not fasten off… jump down to start on the cuff.

Size XL: Ch-1, do not turn, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog, sc in remaining 11 sts. Join to top of first sc. (25) Do not fasten off… jump down to start on the cuff.

Size 2XL: Ch-1, do not turn, sc2tog, * sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog * repeat between * * three more times. Join to top of first sc. (25) Do not fasten off… jump down to start on the cuff.

Size 3XL: Ch-1, do not turn, sc2tog, * sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog * repeat between * * two more times. Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. Join to top of first sc. (26) Do not fasten off… jump down to start on the cuff.

Size 4XL: Ch-1, do not turn, sc2tog, * sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog * repeat between * * 4 more times. Join to top of first sc. (26) Do not fasten off… jump down to start on the cuff.

Size 5XL: Ch-1, do not turn, sc2tog, * sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog * repeat between * * two more times. Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc in remaining 2 sts. Join to top of first sc. (27) Do not fasten off… jump down to start on the cuff.

Cuff (all sizes):

Row 1: Ch-11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. Sl st to top of corresponding st on sleeve. (10)

Row 2: Sl st to top of next st on sleeve, turn. Sc in BLO in first 9 sts, sc in both top loops of last st. (10)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in BLO of each st to end. Sl st to top of corresponding st on sleeve. (10)

Rows 4 – (21, 22, 23, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26, 27): Alternate rows 2 & 3 around the entire bottom of sleeve. Fasten off and sew stitch for stitch closed.

I hope that you absolutely love this sweater, and that if this is your first wearable crochet pattern, that you enjoyed making it! Please share a photo with me in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook or by tagging @HeartHookHome across all social media.

 

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29 Comments

  1. Hi, I'm excited to try this sweater pattern. I am wondering if there is an easy way to make the back not V neck, more like a crew in the back. Please let me know! Thank you!
  2. Ashley, I like the sweater but was wondering if there is any "ease" built into the sweater? I'm between a small and medium so the ease will make a big difference. Thank you.
    1. Hi Katrina! The measurements listed in the sizing chart are the finished sweater measurements, so I would probably go with the Medium unless you are wanting something fitted.
  3. I've just seen this and it's gorgeous! I'm going to start on it as soon as my current project is off the hook (maybe I won't wait even that long). Thank you for sharing your beautiful creations with us so generously.
  4. Hello, this is my first sweater I have tried to crochet. My size is large. I have completed the 55 rows and now ready to seam the sides. For my size I am to leave 37 stitches unworked. My total count of stitches is 121. I subtracted 121 - 37 = 84. 84 divided by 2 = 42. So I counted in 42 stitches, and marked where the 37 begins and ends. There are 42 stitches where the 37 ends. When I tried it on my one arm it felt right. Is this the correct way to determine? Is there an easier way? Thank you.
    1. That’s what I did. Hopefully it works out. I have everything done but the sleeves and ribbing’s I put it on and it’s a little shorter than I expected. I suppose my count should have been more stitches. My first problem was I didn’t know if it was going the correct way. Somehow it worked out. But lost count a few times and dropped stitches, I should have started over but this is my third attempt at making this one. Now I know and next time I will use a solid colour not a colour with different shades. The sleeves are going to run around the arm not up and down with the body of the sweater. Live and learn. Hopefully this is some useful information. Blessings.
  5. I first want to thank you for the pattern. I have started but have a question, is this to go over your shoulder worked in long rows? I am not understanding how this is going to work. If this is the case I’m short on the size and have already done 20 rows. I suppose I will have to remove all and it and start over. Thanks
  6. Is there another stich, like a half doudle or a double stich, that i can use on the v neck aweater pattern ,in place of the trinity stich? I am using Truboo yarn 3.5 oz/100g. the trinity stich is too loose and doesn't look very neat . Kind of looks like a sloppy stich. It could just be my crocheing but I can,t seem to make it look good. I really like the look of the sweater and the pattern.
  7. Love this sweater! Thank you for the pattern. I made a large and it’s a little too big. Do I have to block it? Maybe I should wash it. Thank you!
  8. Thank you for the great pattern! I whipped one up in about a week during my spare time and it turned out fabulous! My stitch count around the base was higher for some reason, so I just added a couple of decrease rows before the ribbing and it fits perfectly. I also added a round of picot stitches around the neckline. Love it!
  9. Thank you SO MUCH for this pattern! (if I could yell from the rooftops I would!) I've looked everywhere for a v-neck sweater that had a lot of texture . I had some aran weight wool-blend yarn that I was holding on to for years, waiting for this design to come along. I had to special order the big hook, but the effect was worth it. It took me about 30 hours to make -- 3 hours an evening, plus a weekend. The result is spectacular. I'm looking forward to making one as a gift, too, since it's not a huge time commitment. Wonderful!
      1. An update. The character of the aran weight yarn I used threw my gauge off substantially. I wanted a loose fit; I ended up with a sweater that my husband was able to get in WITH me! Yikes!I had to take the body in about 8 inches. However, I loved the way the sleeves fit [I have very heavy arms]. Your side to side design was brilliant -- it made a major alteration relatively simple. I was able to leave the sleeves and side seams intact, and reduce the number of rows in the middle of the sweater! I unravelled and removed the bottom ribbing, as well as the finish around the neckline. I carefully teased out the end of the row extension after the neckline chain, and unravelled 4 full rows plus a partial one, leaving the rest for the new extension. At this point, the sweater was in 2 pieces. I counted back 5 rows on the other half, snipped the bottom of that row, and unravelled that. I had to pick up live stitches, but the 4 loop groupings of the trinity stitch made that very easy. When I finished picking up the stitches, I turned and continued to stitch the other neckline extension. I seamed the 2 halves together with a matress stitch, and finished the neckline and bottom ribbing per your instructions. The whole process took me about 4 hours, and now it fits perfectly. Genius!
  10. Hi Ashlea! I would like to make one but I don't have a bigger hook like the 9mm. The biggest one I have is just 6.5mm. How will I adjust the pattern though? I am only a beginner and I'm looking to make one for size 4xl-5xl as a gift. I will gladly appreciate your suggestions. Thanks!
  11. Ashlea, I really like the look of this sweater. But I don't care for a sweater back that cuts down like this does. Is there an easy way to convert the back to come up higher, like a crew neck back neck opening does? I would appreciate any help you can offer to solve this. Georgia
  12. i love the look of this sweater it['s so versatile the neck opening can be made smaller and sleeves longer shorter and so on i cannot wait to make this one
  13. Hello, Ashlea - Thank you for sharing your lovely sweater pattern. I have been searching for several months for just the right v-neck sweater to crochet, and I am so happy to have found your pattern! All your designs are so beautiful, and they have that "something extra" that makes them stand out. I can't wait to get started on this. Thanks, again!
  14. A 9mm crochet hook seems huge to me for this v-neck trinity stitch sweater. Won't it end up being really loose?
  15. Hi Ashlea What a beautiful pattern! It’s my first time using the trinity stitch and it is so great! I had a question about the row numbering. I’m making size small, and it has 20 rows before the break for the V, and two rows that make the V. But then it says to go until row 43 before fastening off. I just wanted to check because in my mind that means one side of the sweater would have an extra row? (20 on one side + 2 for the V + 21 on the other side to make 43 rows) I just want to make sure my sweater will turn out as lovely as the ones in your pictures.?? Thanks for clarifying!
    1. I am noticing the same thing for the large. This is my first sweater and I am not sure what to do. What did you end up doing?
    1. Hi Lesa! I do not have a video for this sweater specifically, but I do have one on the trinity stitch which may help get you started. Hope this helps!
  16. Hi Ashlea, I am trying to use a patricia roberts white cotton #2 yarn. I was gifted 9 balls of 50mg so I figure that should be enough to make the large sleeveless! I can get gauge with the 9mm N hook but the stitches are loose. When I use K hook it looks better but doesn't come out to gauge!! Any suggestions?
    1. Hi Maria! Your stitches are probably looking loose due to using such a thin yarn (2 sizes smaller than what is indicated in the pattern). I would suggest using the smaller hook, and going up a pattern size or 2...so the XL or 2X. Hope this helps!
    1. Hi Sharon! If you are on Facebook, I have a group called Heart Hook Home Crochet Community in which some of my testers of the larger sizes have shared their photos. We would love for you to find and join us!