I'll Pine Ear Warmer: Free Crochet Pattern

The I’ll Pine for You Cowl has been a hit and I’ve had several requests for an ear warmer to match. Ladies and gentlemen, today I present to you, the I’ll Pine Ear Warmer; a free crochet pattern.

I’ll Pine Ear Warmer

For this pattern we are following the same concept as the I’ll Pine Cowl. This pattern is a one-size-fits-most and works up super quickly! For this pattern you will only need about 80 yards total; 65 yards of Color A and about 15 yards of Color B.

Materials:

Red Heart Heat Wave Yarn (or any other worsted weight/Aran yarn)
-Color A (approx. 65 yards)
-Color B (approx. 15 yards)

Crochet hook in size H/5mm

Red Heart’s NEW Heat Wave yarn is a medium, worsted weight yarn that gets physically warmer (up to 12° warmer) when exposed to UV rays – even if its cloudy outside! Perfect for spending extended periods of time outdoors.

Gauge: 14 sts in 4”

Gauge Pattern:

Row 1: Ch-19, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch to end. (17)
Row 2: Ch-1, turn, sl st in each st to end. (17)
Row 3: Ch-2, turn, dc in first stitch, * fptc around the next dc two rows below, dc in next st * repeat between * * to end. (17)
Row 4: Ch-1, turn, sl st in each st to end. (17)
Row 5: Ch-2, turn, dc in first 2 sts, * fptc around the next dc two rows below, dc in next st * repeat between * * six more times. Dc in last st. (17) Measure width. Should have ~14 sts in 4”.

Finished Dimensions: ~ 20” total circumference and ~ 3.75” tall

Pattern Notes:

Use Color A for the double crochet/post stitch rows and Color B for the slip stitch rows. Carry the opposite yarn at each row’s join.

The chain at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.

Stay loose on the slip stitch rows.

Fdc = Foundation double crochet

Fptc = Front post treble crochet

When working the dc/fptc rows go into the TOP of the dc/fptc from two rows down. (So the sl st row remains untouched – see photo in pattern for clarification)

The dc/fptc rows are “right side” and the sl st rows are “wrong side”.

The join/seam looks nicer if you pull the non-working yarn to the back at each join, like this:

Pattern:

Using Color A…
Round 1: Fdc-68, join to first dc without twisting. (or Ch-68, join with sl st to first ch without twisting chain, ch-2, dc in each ch around. Using Color B, join to top of first dc with sl st. (68)

Round 2: Ch-1, turn, loosely sl st in each st around. Using Color A, join to top of first sl st with sl st. (68)

Round 3: Ch-2, turn,* dc in next, fptc around dc two rows down * repeat between * * around. Using Color B, join to top of first dc with sl st. (68)

Proper stitch placement on odd numbered rows:

Round 4: repeat row 2 (68)

Continue alternating colors each row for duration of pattern…

Round 5: Ch-2, turn, * fptc around dc from two rows down, dc in next * repeat between * * around. Join to top of first fptc with sl st. (68)

Rounds 6 – 9: repeat rows 2 – 5 one more time (68)

Round 10: repeat row 2 (68)

Round 11: repeat row 3 (68)

Row 12: (stay on Color A this time) repeat row 2 (68)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. If your join looks a bit wonky, I find that by leaving the yarn tail a bit longer, you are able to cinch up the post stitches (Color A) and it helps to hide the seam.