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Toe-Tally Easy Crochet Socks: Free Unisex Crochet Pattern

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No question about it, crocheting socks can be intimidating. With this new, free unisex crochet sock pattern, we are changing that! This pattern is very beginner friendly, and you’ll walk away (in your super comfy socks) knowing how to crochet a toe-up, short row heel sock for just about any adult.

slipper soles on crocheted socks

Toe-Tally Easy Crochet Sock Pattern

Crochet socks are a great way to show someone you care. Putting in the effort to crochet a pair of socks makes it absolutely known to the recipient that we want them to be warm, comfy, and feel loved every time they wear said socks. I can’t think of a better gift going into this gifting season. ♥

crocheted-socks-pattern

Crocheting socks can be intimidating because of the shaping needed to make the heel. The technique used to make this sock heel is called short rows, where we crochet half of the heel, then “turn” the heel so that we can make the second half, picking up the side of each row as we crochet it.

Keeping in mind that this may be your first sock or short row pattern, I made this pattern as easy to follow as possible. You will need plenty of stitch markers, but after making a pair for yourself, I think you’ll have a better understanding of how short rows themselves – and socks! – work. We’ll be playing around with short rows in future designs, so let’s get our feet wet here. 🙂

Socks should have what is called a “negative ease”, meaning that they are slightly smaller than the size of the foot. The nature of yarn is to stretch a bit with use, and you don’t want them falling off your feet after a few short wears! Let’s start our sock making adventures with this free, beginner friendly pattern.

how to crochet short row socks

double crochet socks

For this pattern we are using the Linked Double Crochet stitch. This is a stitch that does not have a lot of bumps on back side (inside of the foot), meaning that it should not aggravate the soles of your feet like other stitches might.

easy crocheted socks toe up

The sizes for these crochet socks range from women’s size 5 up to men’s size 13. If you need them a bit smaller or a bit larger than that even, I would simply adjust your hook size – down to make them slightly smaller and up a hook size to make them slightly larger. If you need help with a particularly large pair, shoot me an email and I’d be happy to help!

Grab the ad-free, printable pdf either on Ravelry, Etsy, or in the Heart Hook Home shop. Thank you!

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn (Vanna’s Choice in “Navy” and “Linen” pictured, Wool of the Andes Tweed in “Flagstone Heather” pictured)
-approx. 110 yards per pair for Women’s Size 5 – 6
-approx. 160 yards per pair for Women’s Size 7 – 9
-approx. 232 yards per pair for Women’s Size 10 – 11/Men’s Size 8 – 9
-approx. 240 yards per pair for Men’s Size 10 – 11
-approx. 250 yards per pair for Men’s Size 12 – 13

Crochet hook in size H/5mm

Plenty of Stitch Markers

Crochet sock sizing chart

Gauge:

10 Linked Double Crochet stitches x 7 rows = 3”

Pattern Notes:

Mark the first st of each row with a stitch marker.

Do not turn throughout the pattern, except when working the HEEL rows. The heel is worked in rows, then we switch back to rounds (picking up where we left off) to finish the “ankle” and “leg”.

You could continue the “ankle” or “leg” rows to make the socks as tall as you like. In the tall pair I am modeling I took the ankle all the way to row 50 before adding the cuff.

The suede slipper bottoms I added can be found here in women’s sizes and here for men’s sizes. They really make them non-slip!

Pattern written using US terms.

Photos of specific areas are displayed in their respective place on the Women’s Sizes 7 – 9 size pattern.

VIDEO included below.

Women’s Sizes 5 – 6:

Toe:

Round 1: Ch-4, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (12)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 3 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (16)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (20) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (24)

Rounds 5 – 6: Sc in each st around. (24)

Foot:

Round 7: Dc in first st, Ldc in each st around. (24)

Rounds 8 – 16: Ldc in each st around. (24)

Round 17: 2Ldc in first st. Ldc in 11 sts. 2Ldc in next, ldc in remaining 11 sts. (26)

Round 18: Ldc in each st around. (26)

Start the heel in rows:

Row 1: sc in 13 sts only. (13)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 12 sts. (12)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 11 sts. (11)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 10 sts. (10)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 9 sts. (9)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 8 sts. (8)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 7sts. (7)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 6 sts. (6)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 5 sts. (5)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 5 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (6)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 6 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (7)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 7 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (8)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 8 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (9)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 9 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (10)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 10 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (11)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 11 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down (this sl st should be in the very first sc made on row 1 – the first row of the heel). (12)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

We will now continue the Linked double crochet portion across the top of the foot. To do so, Ldc in next 13 sts. This should get you back to where you were at the end of round 18, where we ended the “foot” and began the “heel”.

Round 19: Ldc in space between foot and heel. Ldc in 13 sts of “heel”, Ldc in space between heel and foot, Ldc in remaining 13 sts. (28)

Rounds 20 – 22: Ldc in each st around. (28)

Jump to “Cuff” for all sizes below.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Women’s Sizes 7 – 9:

Toe:

Round 1: Ch-4, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (12)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 3 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (16)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (20) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (24)

Round 5: Sc in each st around. (24)

Round 6: 2sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next, sc in remaining 11 sts. (26)

Round 7: repeat round 5. (26)

Foot:

Round 8: Dc in first st, Ldc in each st around. (26)

Rounds 9 – 18: Ldc in each st around. (26)

Round 19: 2Ldc in first st. Ldc in 12 sts. 2Ldc in next, ldc in remaining 12 sts. (28)

Round 20: Ldc in each st around. (28)

Start the heel in rows:

Row 1: sc in 14 sts only. (14)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 13 sts. (13)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 12 sts. (12)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 11 sts. (11)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 10 sts. (10)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 9 sts. (9)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 8 sts. (8)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 7 sts. (7)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 6 sts. (6)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 6 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (7)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 7 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (8)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 8 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (9)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 9 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (10)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 10 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (11)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 11 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (12)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down (this sl st should be in the very first sc made on row 1 – the first row of the heel). (13)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

We will now continue the Linked double crochet portion across the top of the foot. To do so, Ldc in next 14 sts. This should get you back to where you were at the end of round 20, where we ended the “foot” and began the “heel”.

Round 21: Ldc in space between foot and heel. Ldc in 14 sts of “heel”, Ldc in space between heel and foot, Ldc in remaining 14 sts. (30)

Rounds 22 – 24: Ldc in each st around. (30)

Jump to “Cuff” for all sizes below.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Women’s Sizes 10 – 11 & Men’s Sizes 8 – 9:

Toe:

Round 1: Ch-4, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (12)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 3 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (16)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (20) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (24)

Round 5: Sc in each st around. (24)

Round 6: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (28)

Round 7: repeat round 5. (28)

Round 8: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (32)

Foot:

Round 9: Dc in first st, Ldc in each st around. (32)

Rounds 10 – 20: Ldc in each st around. (32)

Round 21: * Ldc in next st, 2Ldc in next, Ldc in next 13 sts, 2Ldc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (36)

Round 22: Ldc in each st around. (36)

Start the heel in rows:

Row 1: sc in 18 sts only. (18)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 17 sts. (17)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 16 sts. (16)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 15 sts. (15)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 14 sts. (14)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 13 sts. (13)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 12 sts. (12)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 11 sts. (11)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 10 sts. (10)

Row 10: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 9 sts. (9)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 9 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (10)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 10 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (11)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 11 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (12)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down . (16)

Row 18: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (this sl st should be in the very first sc made on row 1 – the first row of the heel) (17)

Row 19: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (18)

We will now continue the Linked double crochet portion across the top of the foot. To do so, Ldc in next 18 sts. This should get you back to where you were at the end of round 22, where we ended the “foot” and began the “heel”.

Round 23: Ldc in space between foot and heel. Ldc in 18 sts of “heel”, Ldc in space between heel and foot, Ldc in remaining 18 sts. (38)

Rounds 24 – 26: Ldc in each st around. (38)

Jump to “Cuff” for all sizes below.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

men's socks crochet pattern

Men’s Sizes 10-11:

Toe:

Round 1: Ch-4, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (12)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 3 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (16)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (20) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (24)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (28)

Round 6: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (32) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next

Round 7. Sc in each st around. (32)

Round 8: 2sc in first st. Sc in 15 sts. 2sc in next, sc in remaining 15 sts. (34)

Foot:

Round 9: Dc in first st, Ldc in each st around. (34)

Rounds 10 – 20: Ldc in each st around. (34)

Round 21: * Ldc in next st, 2Ldc in next, Ldc in next 14 sts, 2Ldc * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Round 22: Ldc in each st around. (38)

Start the heel in rows:

Row 1: sc in 19 sts only. (19)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 18 sts. (18)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 17 sts. (17)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 16 sts. (16)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 15 sts. (15)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 14 sts. (14)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 13 sts. (13)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 12 sts. (12)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 11 sts. (11)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 11 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (12)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down . (16)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (17)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (this sl st should be in the very first sc made on row 1 – the first row of the heel) (18)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 18 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (19)

We will now continue the Linked double crochet portion across the top of the foot. To do so, Ldc in next 19 sts. This should get you back to where you were at the end of round 22, where we ended the “foot” and began the “heel”.

Round 23: Ldc in space between foot and heel. Ldc in 19 sts of “heel”, Ldc in space between heel and foot, Ldc in remaining 19 sts. (40)

Rounds 24 – 25: Ldc in each st around. (40)

Jump to “Cuff” for all sizes below.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Men’s Sizes 12-13:

Toe:

Round 1: Ch-4, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (12)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 3 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (16)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (20) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (24)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (28)

Round 6: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (32) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next

Round 7. Sc in each st around. (32)

Round 8: 2sc in first st. Sc in 15 sts. 2sc in next, sc in remaining 15 sts. (34)

Foot:

Round 9: Dc in first st, Ldc in each st around. (34)

Rounds 10 – 21: Ldc in each st around. (34)

Round 22: * Ldc in next st, 2Ldc in next, Ldc in next 14 sts, 2Ldc * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Round 23: Ldc in each st around. (38)

Start the heel in rows:

Row 1: sc in 19 sts only. (19)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 18 sts. (18)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 17 sts. (17)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 16 sts. (16)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 15 sts. (15)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 14 sts. (14)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 13 sts. (13)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 12 sts. (12)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in 11 sts. (11)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 11 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (12)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down . (16)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (17)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (this sl st should be in the very first sc made on row 1 – the first row of the heel) (18)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 18 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (19)

We will now continue the Linked double crochet portion across the top of the foot. To do so, Ldc in next 19 sts. This should get you back to where you were at the end of round 23, where we ended the “foot” and began the “heel”.

Round 24: Ldc in space between foot and heel. Ldc in 19 sts of “heel”, Ldc in space between heel and foot, Ldc in remaining 19 sts. (40)

Rounds 25 – 26: Ldc in each st around. (40)

Jump to “Cuff” for all sizes below.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Cuff (All Crochet Sock Sizes):

There are three options for the cuff…

1.) In the Navy pair pictured my husband wanted only a single crochet row instead of anything fancy.

2.) A short cuff made by using single crochet in the back loop only, which creates a nice ridged edge – as seen in the Linen colorway photos.

3.) A Front Post/Back Post ribbing that can be as tall as you like – as pictured in the tall, Flagstone Heather version I am modeling.

Single Crochet Cuff:

Where you left off, simply single crochet in each st around. Fasten off using Invisible Join.

Short Cuff (all sizes):

Sc in next open st.

Row 1: Ch-6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (5) Sl st to next open st on ankle.

Row 2: Sl st to next open st, turn. Sc in BLO of next 4 sts, sc in both loops of last st. (5)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in BLO of each st to end. Sl st to next open st on ankle. (5)

Alternate rows 2 & 3 around, ending with a row 3. Fasten off and use yarn tail to sew first cuff row to last cuff row.

Front Post/Back Post Ribbing (all sizes):

Ldc2tog. (This ensures that you have an ODD number of stitches going into round 1 of the edging)

Row 1: Ch-1 (do not turn), * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Row 2: Ch-1, turn. * bphdc around next st, fphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around last, join to top of first bphdc with sl st.

Row 3: Ch-1, turn. * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Rows 4 – 7 (or as tall as you like): Repeat rows 2 & 3

Row 8: Ch-1, sc in each st around. Join with Invisible Join.

I hope you enjoyed making these crochet socks, and if this was your first sock pattern that you feel more confident going forward. Please share a photo with me by tagging @HeartHookHome on social media, and/or share in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook!

TOE-TALLY EASY CROCHET SOCKS

Comments

      • Las7475 says

        I thought that the pattern called for worsted weight? I’ve been trying to achieve the right gauge with worsted yarn and haven’t been able to. I’ve tried 4 hook sizes and haven’t come close. What yarn is required to reach the proper gauge? I’m about to give up and move on to another pattern.
        Reply

  2. Crystal says

    I made everyone in my family a pair for Christmas! Thank you for the pattern, it was easy to follow and they all turned out great!!!
    Reply

  3. Kiera says

    HI, I made the women's size small 5/6 and was to small so I went up to the 7-9. I wear size 6.5-7. Both came out to small :( So I checked my gauge. I think I did it right, I meassured 7 rows of the ldc and instead of 3" I have 2 1/2". I am using size 5.0mm Hook and 4 weight yarn. I love the pattern and have gotten it down but am getting discouraged that I cannot get the gauge right. Should I go up a hook size?
    Reply

    • Heart Hook Home says

      Hi Kiera! Yes, if your gauge is smaller than mine, then your sock will be smaller as well, so you will need to go up a hook size until you match my gauge.
      Reply

  4. Nell says

    hey Ashlea! this is my first time crocheting socks and this is the most clear and easiest to follow pattern I've found! I do have a question though- I would like to make the cuff on mine using the back post/front post double crochet ribbing (like the tall grey pair in the pictures), but I'm not sure how to make them tall. Should I just keep linked double crocheting in rounds until they reach my desired height and then do the ribbing? Or do I crochet ribbing the whole way up? (that seems like a lot of ribbing)
    Reply

  5. Cheryl Mullins says

    I would love to make these for my family for Christmas. One of my sons is a size 15. Could you suggest how I could make the pattern to that size?
    Reply

    • Heart Hook Home says

      Hi Cheryl! I would do the largest size and just a row or 2 to the foot portion before starting row 22. Hope this helps!
      Reply

  6. Amanda says

    Hello! For quite some time now I've been making socks for my friends. Different pattern in every project. I really like your sock pattern but the thing is that both the yarn and the hook is 3.50mm. Much smaller size. So could you please help me with the whole converting thing?
    Reply

    • Heart Hook Home says

      Hi Amanda! I have a very similar sock pattern to this that uses sock weight yarn and smaller hook that may work better for you...that pattern can be found here: https://hearthookhome.com/herringbone-socks-free-crochet-pattern/
      Reply

  7. Corin M LaCicero says

    I have a question in regards to the heel. You write to turn, don't chain, skip the first stitch and then marker it. But when I watch your video you turn, don't chain skip the first stitch and then make your first single crochet and then you marker that. Which way is the way I'm supposed to be doing it? Thank you!
    Reply

  8. Karen says

    Hello, thanks for the wonderful pattern. Question: Are these sizes sock size or shoe size? I made the size 7-9 and the fit my sister who wears size 5 shoes. I am a size 7 shoe and the 10-11 seem to be a better fit. I did my gauge and it was correct. Just want to stop guessing what size to make now that my kids asked me for a pair. Thanks!
    Reply

  9. Roxanne says

    love these socks! Quick question, after finishing the heel is it possible to decrease the ankle? It is very lose on my husband's. If so how would you go about? Thanks :)
    Reply

    • Nell says

      Mine were loose at the ankle too! Admittedly I completely winged this, but I worked a few linked double crochet decreases where I noticed the looseness and that seemed to fix it. Don't do too many though, or the ankle can get too tight for your foot to go through! There is a wonderful linked double crochet tutorial towards the beginning of this sock pattern if you need it.
      Reply

  10. Patty says

    I made these one month ago with Vannas Choice in the Marble colorway and have worn a hole clear through one sock, with a hole started on the other. I was hoping by using acrylic I wouldn't need to add the soles to the bottom. I love these socks, the pattern was easy to follow so I will make another pair, this time with the soles. Eons ago, when my grandmother made us all slippers, she would sew fabric on the bottom to extend the wear.......I should have followed grandma's lead. Off I go to order more yarn and the soles. Thank you for reading my story of woe.
    Reply

    • Binky Melnik says

      Patty, I’m about the start crocheting these socks (my first ever!), and insofar as the soles go, I plan todo the same with these that I do for socks: I’m gonna use silicone caulk. It makes socks grippy so I don’t slip and fall. (When I was eight, I slipped on my hardwood bedroom floor thanks to slippery socks, and broke one of my teeth off at the gum line. I don’t EVER want that to happen again!) You might consider doing the same. A friend of mine uses a hit glue gun. (I’ve yet to understand the concept behind “hot glue,” and so have never tried this.) Perhaps either of these will solve your problem.
      Reply

      • Patty says

        Thanks Binky, Thanks for responding! I've used puffy paint from the craft store on child slippers so I'm familiar with the concept of making them non-slip. Silicone caulk I think should work too, but haven't tried it. My problem was that the yarn wore out, perhaps it was defective somehow. For that reason I've been hesitant on making these again. Keep well, happy crafting, Patty
        Reply

  11. Jennifer says

    I'm struggling with the heel for the Women's Size 10-11. If I do 10 decreasing rows before turning the heel, my 18th row never connects to my first row of sc, it's always 1 row above. I seem to be a row off every single time and I've re-done my heel about 5 times now thinking I am doing my counting wrong, but I never seem to come out right. Do you know where I might be going wrong?
    Reply

    • Dianne Williams says

      I’m having the same problem. I’ve made the Women’s 5-6 & Women’s 7-9. They turned out fine, so I compared the rows by marking the pattern Right & Wrong sides. The row where you start the slip stitches (R ow 11) you have the right side you. In the other the two sizes that same row you have the wrong side facing. I’ve pulled the heel out 4 times … something seems be wrong in the building rows for this size.
      Reply

    • Dani says

      Have you watched her tutorial video on YouTube? I was having the same issue until I watched and saw how she was working the heel.
      Reply

  12. Jan says

    Even though I'm making gauge with yarn and H hook, my socks are coming out way to big in the foot portion before the heel. Men's size 10-11 has 22 rows before the heel. After I add the heel rows, and have my model try them on, the heel is up around the ankle at the back of the foot. I'm lost.
    Reply

  13. Kathryn Messer says

    Thank you so much for this pattern! I am looking forward to giving this a try after several failed attempts with other crochet sock patterns. Having videos of these types of projects are gold to us beginners. I'm going to use my handspun wool yarn. I'm not very experienced with making gauges, but will try. Is that important with crocheting socks? Thank you so much!
    Reply

    • Heart Hook Home says

      Hi Kathryn! I hope you love the pattern! Gauge is always important when making anything wearable and where size matters. By matching my gauge, it well help insure that the item you are making will turn out the right size. Hope this helps and good luck!
      Reply

  14. Joni Jenkerson says

    I would like to know if you cold make these socks so I can download and print. My man is a size 13 foot and hard to find a sock pattern for him. Thank you in advance....I hope you have a great day ;)
    Reply

    • Heart Hook Home says

      Hi Joni! I have an ad-free printable version available on ravelry for a small fee which can be found here: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/toe-tally-easy-socks
      Reply

  15. Sarah says

    Will you have a video tutorial of this pattern soon? I’m more of a visual learner, so I have an easier time following videos than written pattern.
    Reply

  17. Natalie says

    Wow! I have been searching for a week for an easy toe-up crochet sock pattern. Thank you for doing this. I have been wanting to use alot of stashed sock yarn. And this pattern will also work for my husband who is a size 12.
    Reply

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