This “Full Skein Scarf” is just that; a pattern for a scarf that uses every bit of yardage out of one skein of yarn. Grab your hook and a hank and let’s work one up!
Full Skein Scarf Pattern
The idea for this scarf pattern came when I was working up my Full Stitch square for the Tunisian Basics Crochet-Along. The Full Stitch is so plush and gorgeous, especially when using a slow color changing yarn.
Because of the way the current row dips down to the row below, those slow color changes are drool-worthy. The squish factor on this one is simply delicious.
We start this scarf pattern at one point, growing on the left side only, then decreasing on the left side only when appropriate. Make sure you practice with the Full Stitch tutorial before getting started. It will help with general tips for this stitch but also with proper stitch placement, particularly along the left edge.
Typically the Full Stitch is a two-row-offset-repeat that maintains a constant stitch count. So if you start in the first space you skip the last space and then on the following row you do the opposite. In this scarf we are using those spaces to our advantage.
While we are building the width of the scarf we are ALWAYS going to use the final space of the row, no matter how that row started.
When we start decreasing for the final portion of the pattern we will ALWAYS skip the final space of the row, no matter how that row started.
By doing this we are either adding one stitch every other row or removing one stitch every other row. This is the nature of the Full Stitch and why it works so great for this project. No actual increasing or decreasing needed!
The yarn pictured is Stroll Gradient yarn and has been discontinued. Bummer! A great substitution would be the Stroll Tonal yarn, or the Stroll hand painted for those gorgeous colors. Keep in mind that the Stroll is a size 1/fingering weight yarn so you will want to use two strands as I have here.
If you would like to use just one strand of yarn I recommend a 2/Sport weight or a 3/DK weight that has at least 436 yards, which is a typical yardage in a yarn hank you’d find at any local yarn shop. Of course you could use this pattern with worsted weight too, and it will just come out more plush, but you will need more yarn.
You know what would be stunning? If you used one strand of the Stroll Hand Painted with one complimenting strand of the Stroll Tonal yarn. These two have the same yardage so that would plan out perfectly.
Approx. 436 yards Sport weight or DK weight yarn (or two strands of fingering weight yarn held together as pictured)
*color changing gradient yarns work up gorgeous!
Tunisian crochet hook in size J/6mm
Gauge: Unimportant, but 15 sts x 15 rows = 4” square using Tunisian Full Stitch
Pattern written using US terms.
Using the Tunisian Full Stitch. Tutorial right here on Heart Hook Home.
Backward Pass for all rows: Ch-1, * YO pull through two loops * repeat to end.
Of course you can follow this pattern exactly as written or you can use your kitchen scale to make sure you’re using as much of the precious yardage as you can. I use a kitchen scale that I purchased specifically for weighing yarn. I love this version rather than the flat scales because I can throw the whole project in the bowl. Awesome!
Row 1: Magic Circle, [YO, pull up a loop] 2x (5) Backward Pass.
Tip! Don’t pull the Magic Circle tight until you reach at least row 5. It helps when finding the spaces between the stitches.
Row 2: Sk first sp, TFS in each space to end. Edge stitch. (5) Backward Pass.
Row 3: TFS in first sp and in each sp to end (including final sp). Edge stitch. (6) Backward Pass.
Row 4: Sk first sp, TFS in each sp to end (including final sp). Edge stitch. (6) Backward Pass.
Rows 5 – 72: repeat previous two rows. (ending with 40 sts) Backward Pass.
IMPORTANT! Weigh the project so far (the actual crocheted portion, not the yarn remaining) Make note of this weight, we’ll use it later to make sure we have enough yarn remaining to finish.
Row 73: TFS in first space and in each sp across, skipping final sp. Edge stitch. (40) Backward Pass.
Row 74: Sk first sp, TFS in each sp across, including final sp. Edge stitch. (40) Backward Pass.
Rows 75 – 118: alternate previous two rows (40) Backward Pass.
*Weigh the remaining yarn periodically. When the weight gets down to slightly higher than the weight of the first 72 rows it is time to start decreasing. When ready…
Row 119: TFS in first space and in each sp across, skipping final sp. Edge stitch. (40) Backward Pass.
Row 120: Sk first sp, TFS in each sp across, skipping final sp. Edge stitch. (39) Backward Pass.
Rows 120 – 188: alternate previous two rows (ending with 5 sts) Backward Pass.
Row 189: repeat row 120 (5) Backward Pass: Ch-1, YO pull through all 5 loops.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Since we are using our scale to weigh the remaining yarn as we go, it is possible that you may have a little bit of yarn remaining. If you like, and if there’s enough, you could use that leftover yarn to make a tassel for attaching to either end.
Isn’t this a gorgeous scarf? I hope you love it as much as I do, and that you’ll share a photo of yours with me when you’re finished. Please tag @HeartHookHome in posts on social media, or in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community on Facebook.