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Velvet Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern for Big Kids

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The bigger kids sizes of the Velvet Cardi are ready for your hook! For the child sizes of this velvet yarn cardigan pattern, I decided to split the posts into two: one for little kids (which can be found here) and one for big kids – this one!

Velvet Cardi for Big Kids

Velvet Cardigan Crochet Pattern for Big Kids

All sizes included in this post require just two skeins of Bernat Velvet yarn. Yep, even the 10/12 size takes less than two skeins. WINNING!

ribbed velvet cardigan

If you have never worked with Bernat Velvet (or any velvet) before, you’ll definitely want to take a look at these tips and tricks before you get started. They will save you time and possibly a frogging in the long run!

Bernat Velvet yarn review

Sizes available: 12M, 18/24M, 2/3T and then 4/6, 6/8, 8/10, 10/12

NOTE: I have broken the kids’ sizes into two posts: one for little kids HERE and this one for big kids.

Get ALL of the kids sizes together in one print-friendly PDF on either Ravelry, Etsy, or in the Heart Hook Home shop. Thank you!

If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

kids cardigan using velvet yarn

Big Kids Velvet Cardi

Materials:

Bernat Velvet Yarn (Bulky/315 yards per skein)
-approx. 385 yards for 4/6 (2 balls)
-approx. 435 yards for 6/8 (2 balls)
-approx. 500 yards for 8/10 (2 balls)
-approx. 530 yards for 10/12 (2 balls)

*Note that this yarn is labeled as hand wash only, lay flat to dry. While this isn’t too bad for adults, the kids sizes may need more frequent laundering. Consider using a different bulky weight yarn, such as Bernat Softee Chunky. I bet that would work (and hold up) great! I used Red Heart Hygge for one of mine and I love it. You could also use Caron Latte Cakes or Red Heart With Love Chunky (discontinued).

Crochet hook in size I/5.5mm

Gauge: 11 hdc sts x 9 rows = 4” square

Pattern Notes:

The chain at the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch.

Fhdc = Foundation Half Double Crochet (tutorial)

The body is worked in vertical rows.

Keep your tension on the tight side, especially on the decreases.

Leave longer yarn tails than normal to fully weave in ends.

Pattern written using US terms.

Find a full companion video for this pattern here.

Size 4/6T:

Row 1: Fhdc-45

Rows 2 – 28: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (45)

Underarm/Armhole row:

Row 29: Ch-1, turn, hdc in 32 sts only, then ch-14. (46)

Front:

Row 30: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (45)

Rows 31 – 36: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (45)

Row 37: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (43)

Row 38: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (43)

Row 39: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (41)

Row 40: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (41)

Row 41: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (39) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Other front:

Attach to bottom corner, with top of cardigan to your left as pictured…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc in 32 sts only, then ch-14. (46)

Row 2: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (45)

Rows 3 – 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (45)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (43)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (43)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (41)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (41)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (39) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Lay cardigan out flat and fold the two “fronts” in to form shoulders/armholes.

Sew shoulders together end for end using the Mattress Stitch. Do not weave in all of these ends yet. (We’ll use them to cinch any holes after both the edging and sleeves have been added).

Sleeves Size 4/6:

Attach yarn in bottom center of armhole with slst…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc evenly around opening. Join to first hdc with sl st. (28)

Rows 2 – 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (28)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st around. Join to top of first hdc with sl st. (27)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (27)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, hdc in all but last two sts, hdc2tog. (26)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (26)

Rows 13 – 20: repeat rows 9 – 12 (ending with 22 sts)

Row 21: repeat row 9 (21)

Rows 22 – 26: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (21)

Cuff:

Row 1: Where still attached… Ch-7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Row 2: Sl st to next open st on sleeve, turn. Sc in blo of next 5 sts, sc in both loops of last st. (6)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in blo of each st to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the cuff. When you get back to the first row, and there are no more sts left on sleeve, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew last row to first row of cuff.

Size 6/8:

Row 1: Fhdc-55

Rows 2 – 32: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (55)

Underarm/Armhole row:

Row 33: Ch-1, turn, hdc in 41 sts only, then ch-15. (56)

Front:

Row 34: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (55)

Rows 35 – 40: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (55)

Row 41: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 42: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 43: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (51)

Row 44: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (51)

Row 45: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (49) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Other front:

Attach to bottom corner, with top of cardigan to your left as pictured…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc in 41 sts only, then ch-15. (56)

Row 2: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (55)

Rows 3 – 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (55)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (51)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (51)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (49) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Lay cardigan out flat and fold the two “fronts” in to form shoulders/armholes. Sew shoulders together end for end using the Mattress Stitch. Do not weave in all of these ends yet. (We’ll use them to cinch any holes after both the edging and sleeves have been added).

Sleeves Size 6/8:

Attach yarn in bottom center of armhole with slst…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc evenly around opening. Join to first hdc with sl st. (30)

Rows 2 – 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (30)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st around. Join to top of first hdc with sl st. (29)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (29)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, hdc in all but last two sts, hdc2tog. (28)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (28)

Rows 13 – 24: repeat rows 9 – 12 (ending with 22 sts)

Rows 25 – 28: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (22)

Cuff:

Row 1: Where still attached… Ch-7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Row 2: Sl st to next open st on sleeve, turn. Sc in blo of next 5 sts, sc in both loops of last st. (6)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in blo of each st to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the cuff. When you get back to the first row, and there are no more sts left on sleeve, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew last row to first row of cuff.

Size 8/10:

Row 1: Fhdc-57

Rows 2 – 33: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (57)

Underarm/Armhole row:

Row 34: Ch-1, turn, hdc in 42 sts only, then ch-16. (58)

Front:

Row 35: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (57)

Rows 36 – 41: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (57)

Row 42: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (55)

Row 43: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (55)

Row 44: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 45: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 46: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (51) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Other front:

Attach to bottom corner, with top of cardigan to your left as pictured…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc in 42 sts only, then ch-16. (58)

Row 2: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (57)

Rows 3 – 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (57)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (55)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (55)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (53)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (51) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Lay cardigan out flat and fold the two “fronts” in to form shoulders/armholes. Sew shoulders together end for end using the Mattress Stitch. Do not weave in all of these ends yet. (We’ll use them to cinch any holes after both the edging and sleeves have been added).

Sleeves Size 8/10:

Attach yarn in bottom center of armhole with slst…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc evenly around opening. Join to first hdc with sl st. (32)

Rows 2 – 7: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (32)

Row 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st around. Join to top of first hdc with sl st. (31)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (31)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in all but last two sts, hdc2tog. (30)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (30)

Rows 12 – 23: repeat rows 8 – 11 (ending with 24 sts)

Rows 24 – 30: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (24)

Cuff:

Row 1: Where still attached… Ch-7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Row 2: Sl st to next open st on sleeve, turn. Sc in blo of next 5 sts, sc in both loops of last st. (6)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in blo of each st to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the cuff. When you get back to the first row, and there are no more sts left on sleeve, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew last row to first row of cuff.

Size 10/12:

Row 1: Fhdc-60

Rows 2 – 34: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (60)

Underarm/Armhole row:

Row 35: Ch-1, turn, hdc in 43 sts only, then ch-18. (61)

Front:

Row 36: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (60)

Rows 37 – 42: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (60)

Row 43: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (58)

Row 44: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (58)

Row 45: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (56)

Row 46: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (56)

Row 47: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (54) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Other front:

Attach to bottom corner, with top of cardigan to your left as pictured…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc in 43 sts only, then ch-18. (61)

Row 2: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each to end. (60)

Rows 3 – 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (60)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (58)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (58)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (56)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (56)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. (54) Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders. Do not weave in ends.

Lay cardigan out flat and fold the two “fronts” in to form shoulders/armholes. Sew shoulders together end for end using the Mattress Stitch. Do not weave in all of these ends yet. (We’ll use them to cinch any holes after both the edging and sleeves have been added).

Sleeves Size 10/12:

Attach yarn in bottom center of armhole with slst…

Row 1: Ch-1, hdc evenly around opening. Join to first hdc with sl st. (36)

Rows 2 – 6: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (36)

Row 7: Ch-1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in each st around. Join to top of first hdc with sl st. (35)

Row 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (35)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc in all but last two sts, hdc2tog. (34)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (34)

Rows 11 – 30: repeat last 4 rows in order (ending with 24 sts)

Rows 31 – 32: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (24)

Cuff:

Row 1: Where still attached… Ch-7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Row 2: Sl st to next open st on sleeve, turn. Sc in blo of next 5 sts, sc in both loops of last st. (6)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in blo of each st to end. Sl st to next open st on sleeve. (6)

Repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around the cuff. When you get back to the first row, and there are no more sts left on sleeve, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew last row to first row of cuff.

Edging (all sizes):

Attach anywhere along bottom of cardigan with sl st (side seam looks nicest)…

Row 1: Ch-7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. Sl st to top of corresponding open row/stitch on body. (6)

Row 2: Sl st to next open row/st on body, turn. Sc in blo of next 5 sts, sc in both loops of last st. (6)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, sc in blo of each st to end. Sl st to corresponding open st on body. (6)

Alternate rows 2 & 3 all the way around the entire cardigan.

When working up the curved front edges, only slip stitch to body ONE time in between rows. This keeps the curved portion of the cardigan body from puckering while allowing the outsides of those edging rows to continue to grow.

If you need help with the edging, the video tutorial will help!

Complete neck section as bottom edge. When you get all the way back around to where you started, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew last row to first row.

Sew to ends together and you are done! I hope your child loves their new Velvet Cardi, and if you love the feel of yours, make your own with the adult pattern! 😀

Velvet yarn cardigan for kids

More free patterns for kids:

Velvet Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern for Little Kids

Bomber Cardi for Kids (size 2/3T)

Chunky Ballet Slippers Crochet Pattern (Kids Size Included!)

Hibernation Hoodie CHILD Sizes

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33 Comments

  1. Hi! Could you post the finished measurements for the cardi 10/12? I've had mixed results when buying that size, so it would be great to know the measurements of this one.
  2. Size 10-12 after 34 rows measured 13 inches Swatch was right on. Can I add more row til it measures 15” or will it mess up the rest of the pattern? I love this pattern
    1. Hi Marta! You can continue adding rows until you get to 15" as long as you end on an even row before starting the underarm/armhole row.
  3. My back size 10-12 measures only 13 inch My swatch was spot on. Can I add more rows to make it 15” without throwing off the rest of the pattern?
  4. i want to make a size for 7-8 years old, are there any changes in the pattern i can do? also theres no lenght provided for each size can you provide a pattern size for 7 to 8 years old and the lenght the cardigan should be? i would love to have the lenght of the cardigan for a 4 feet 7 year old girl thank you
    1. Hi Cathy! You would just need to follow the pattern directions for the size 6/8...finished length with edging is approximately 22". Hope this helps!
      1. thank you for that, if i can ask for them to measure her, what is the vital part is it shoulder to shoulder and shoulder to wrist? and/or underarm to wrist just so i can have a basis and i can measure the garment based on her back or any other measurements. thank you again
        1. The back measurement (armpit to armpit) would be about 14". Sleeve length can be shortened or lengthened easily since it is worked in the round from the shoulders down.
          1. thank you, can i use any other yarn aside from what you suggested as long as its #5 bulky? like mandala watercolors it says roving #5 i think
  5. LOVE LOVE LOVE this pattern. It worked up so fast (I did size 6-8 in 3 days). I ended up using Hygge yarn (5 full balls in indigo). I used Hygge instead of velvet just because of the ability to wash and dry since this was for a child and wanted ease of care. I will definitely be making myself one after the holidays. Thank you SO much for the pattern!
  6. Hello.... Very interested in your design.... I will crochet the cardigan for my daughters.... Wondering if I can used your cardigan pattern to sell the finish product....
    1. Hi! You are more than welcome to sell your creations made from my patterns. I just ask that you use your own photos and credit the pattern design to Heart Hook Home =)
  7. Love this pattern. Crocheting these sweaters for four of my granddaughters. Do you have this pattern in a size 16? Teenage granddaughter. Thank you for sharing!
  8. Hi! Could you use the baby velvet to make this pattern? It is worsted weight. Would using worsted weight and going up a Size work?
  9. Can you supply the finished measurements of the cardi so that I can determine which size will fit my granddaughter ?
    1. Hi Josette! The pattern is available in crochet only, but I do have adult sizing for it. That post can be found here: https://hearthookhome.com/velvet-cardi-crochet-pattern/
      1. Hi, I’m making the 10/12 size and I finished row 34... but it’s a little over 12 inches wide.... does that seem right? How wide should the back panel be?
    1. Hi Genie! Yes, information about the adult version can be found here: https://hearthookhome.com/velvet-cardi-crochet-pattern/
  10. Thank you for these adorable patterns. I have just finished the 2/3 and am now starting on the 4/6. I noticed that both of these patterns start with the same 45 FHDC Is that correct.? It seems that the larger one should have more stitches to begin. Thanks.
    1. Hi Cindy! Typically, the height difference between those sizes is in the legs, not the torso, which is why they have the same starting count. All of my testers came out fine, but you can add a few stitches if you feel you need to. Hope this helps!
      1. Hi there! I got 3 quarters of the way through the 4/6 size and it’s way too small for my 4 year old. I followed the pattern exactly and have referenced the video as well, since it’s my first garment. What could I have done wrong??
          1. Initially it did. I tend to crochet really tight though, so I frogged the whole attempt and tried again with a 6.5 mm hook and it’s still too small. This is obviously not meant to be.