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Herringbone Socks: Free Crochet Pattern in FIVE Sizes

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Calling all sock lovers! I have a brand NEW free crochet pattern for Herringbone Socks to share with you today! ♥ Available in five sizes from Women’s 5 to Men’s 13, whip a pair up for all of your favorite people.

Herringbone Socks

These toe-up, short row heel socks are crocheted using the Herringbone Half Double Crochet stitch. If you need a tutorial for that, make sure you check out this post. If this is your first foray into crocheting short row socks, I highly recommend following along with the beginner-friendly Toe-Tally Easy Sock VIDEO tutorial.

Herringbone Socks: Free Crochet Pattern in FIVE Sizes

This yarn colorway (now discontinued) screamed “cozy chic socks” to me. I love the array of colors, and the splash of blue that spices things up. Aren’t they just fab?! ♥ I love that this yarn is self-striping and that the colors changed at almost exactly the same stitch on each sock! I did make sure to start RIGHT at the first color change of the skein, in this case at the beginning of brown for both.

Materials:

Felicini Fingering yarn (size 1)
-two skeins, one for each sock (any size)

Crochet hook in size D/3.25mm

Crochet hook in size G/4mm

Gauge: 18 Hhdc sts and 12 rows in 3” (use size D/3.25mm for gauge)

Pattern Notes:

Mark the first st of each row with a stitch marker.

Do not turn throughout the pattern, except when working the HEEL rows.

You could continue the “ankle” rows to make the socks as short or tall as you like.

Pattern written using US terms.

Each size is separated out individually.

These socks are stretchy! They may appear too small while working them up.

Use the tail from the beginning chain to cinch up any holes in the toe as you weave in the end.

We are using the Herringbone Half Double Crochet stitch. Watch the tutorial for this stitch here.

The entire sock is worked in continuous rounds with the exception of the heel. The heel is worked in rows, then we switch back to rounds (picking up where we left off) to finish the “ankle” and “leg”.

Grab the ad-free, printable pdf of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy or in the Heart Hook Home shop. Thank you!

When designing sock patterns, I look for stitches that are flat on the “wrong side” so that the little bumps aren’t hard on sensitive feet. I know this is a concern for many (including myself!) and the Herringbone stitch is very flat on the back side. 😉

Now let’s whip up some socks together! The sizes are based off of what SHOE size you wear. Not sock size.

Crochet sock sizing chart

Herringbone Sock Tutorial Photos:

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock.

First half of heel complete. (The stitch markers are important!)

First hhdc stitches after completing the heel.

Grab the ad-free, printable pdf of this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy. Thank you!

Women’s 5 – 6:

Toe:

With G/4mm hook…
Round 1: Ch-7, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (18)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (26) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: sc in each st around. (26)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (30)

Round 7: 2sc in first st. Sc in 14 sts. 2sc in next, sc in remaining 14 sts. (32)

Rounds 8 – 10: repeat round 6. (32)

Switch to D/3.25mm hook…
Rounds 11 – 28: Hhdc in each st around. (32)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 11.

Round 29: * 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next. 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next 13 sts. * repeat between * * one more time. (36)

Rounds 30 – 33: Hhdc in each st around. (36)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 11.

Start the heel in rows:

Switch back to the G/4mm hook to make the heel…
Row 1: sc in 18 sts only. (18)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 17 sts. (17)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 16 sts. (16)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 15 sts. (15)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 14 sts. (14)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 13 sts. (13)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 12 sts. (12)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 11 sts. (11)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 10 sts. (10)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 10: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 10 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (11)

Row 11: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 11 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (12)

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (16)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in same space as first sc of row 1. (17)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (18)

You should be looking at the “right side” and ready to start again with hhdc across the top of the foot.

Switch back to the D/3.25mm hook…
Hhdc in the side of the st directly following. Hhdc in the next space (the same as the last sc of the heel). Hhdc in next 18 sts. Hhdc in next space (the same as the first sc of the heel). Hhdc in last sl st of the heel (22)

Leg:

Rounds 34 – 60 (or until desired height is reached): hhdc in each at around. (40)

Round 61: Ch-1 (do not turn), * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Row 62: Ch-1, turn. * bphdc around next st, fphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around last, join to top of first bphdc with sl st.

Row 63: Ch-1, turn. * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Rows 64 – 67 (or as tall as you like): Repeat rows 62 & 63

Row 68: Ch-1, sc in each st around. Join with Invisible Join.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Women’s 7 – 9:

Toe:

With G/4mm hook…
Round 1: Ch-7, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (18)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (26) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: 2sc in first st. Sc in 16 sts. 2sc in next, sc in remaining 16 sts. (36)

Rounds 8 – 10: repeat round 6. (36)

Switch to D/3.25mm hook…
Rounds 11 – 32: Hhdc in each st around. (36)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 11.

Round 33: * 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next. 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next 15 sts. * repeat between * * one more time. (40)

Rounds 34 – 37: Hhdc in each st around. (40)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 11.

Start the heel in rows:

Switch back to the G/4mm hook to make the heel…
Row 1: sc in 20 sts only. (20)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 19 sts. (19)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 18 sts. (18)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 17 sts. (17)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 16 sts. (16)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 15 sts. (15)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 14 sts. (14)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 13 sts. (13)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 12 sts. (12)

Row 10: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 11 sts. (11)

Row 11: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 10 sts. (10)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 12: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 10 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (11)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 11 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (12)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (16)

Row 18: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (17)

Row 19: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (18)

Row 20: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 18 sts, sl st in same space as first sc of row 1. (19)

Row 21: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 19 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (20)

You should be looking at the “right side” and ready to start again with hhdc across the top of the foot.

Switch back to the D/3.25mm hook…
Hhdc in the side of the st directly following. Hhdc in the next space (the same as the last sc of the heel). Hhdc in next 20 sts. Hhdc in next space (the same as the first sc of the heel). Hhdc in last sl st of the heel. (24)

Leg:

Rounds 38 – 60 (or until desired height is reached): Hhdc in each at around. (44)

Round 61: Ch-1 (do not turn), * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Row 62: Ch-1, turn. * bphdc around next st, fphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around last, join to top of first bphdc with sl st.

Row 63: Ch-1, turn. * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Rows 64 – 67 (or as tall as you like): Repeat rows 62 & 63

Row 68: Ch-1, sc in each st around. Join with Invisible Join.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Women’s 10 – 11 & Men’s 8 – 9:

Toe:

With G/4mm hook…
Round 1: Ch-7, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (18)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (26) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 14 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Rounds 8 – 9: repeat round 6. (38) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 10: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (42)

Rounds 11 – 12: Sc in each st around. (42)

Switch to D/3.25mm hook…
Rounds 13 – 35: Hhdc in each st around. (42)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 13.

Round 36: * 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next. 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next 18 sts. * repeat between * * one more time. (46)

Rounds 37 – 41: Hhdc in each st around. (46)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 13.

Start the heel in rows:

Switch back to the G/4mm hook to make the heel...
Row 1: sc in 23 sts only. (23)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 22 sts. (22)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 21 sts. (21)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 20 sts. (20)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 19 sts. (19)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 18 sts. (18)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 17 sts. (17)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 16 sts. (16)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 15 sts. (15)

Row 10: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 14 sts. (14)

Row 11: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 13 sts. (13)

Row 12: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 12 sts. (12)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.

Row 13: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 14: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (16)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (17)

Row 18: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (18)

Row 19: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 18 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (19)

Row 20: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 19 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (20)

Row 21: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 20 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (21)

Row 22: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 21 sts, sl st in same space as first sc of row 1. (22)

Row 23: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 22 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (23)

You should be looking at the “right side” and ready to start again with hhdc across the top of the foot.

Switch back to the D/3.25mm hook…
Hhdc in the side of the st directly following. Hhdc in the next space (the same as the last sc of the heel). Hhdc in next 23 sts. Hhdc in next space (the same as the first sc of the heel). Hhdc in last sl st of the heel (27)

Leg:

Rounds 42 – 60 (or until desired height is reached): Hhdc in each at around. (50)

Round 61: Ch-1 (do not turn), * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Row 62: Ch-1, turn. * bphdc around next st, fphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around last, join to top of first bphdc with sl st.

Row 63: Ch-1, turn. * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Rows 64 – 67 (or as tall as you like): Repeat rows 62 & 63

Row 68: Ch-1, sc in each st around. Join with Invisible Join.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Men’s 10 – 11:

Toe:

With G/4mm hook…
Round 1: Ch-7, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (18)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (26) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 14 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Round 8: repeat round 6. (38) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 9: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (42)

Round 10: Sc in each st around. (42)

Round 11: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 18 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (46)

Round 12 : Sc in each st around. (46)

Switch to D/3.25mm hook…
Rounds 13 – 37: Hhdc in each st around. (46)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 13.

Round 38: * 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next. 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next 20 sts. * repeat between * * one more time. (50)

Rounds 39 – 43: Hhdc in each st around. (50)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 13.

Start the heel in rows:

Switch back to the G/4mm hook to make the heel…
Row 1: sc in 25 sts only. (25)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 24 sts. (24)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 23 sts. (23)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 22 sts. (22)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 21 sts. (21)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 20 sts. (20)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 19 sts. (19)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 18 sts. (18)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 17 sts. (17)

Row 10: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 16 sts. (16)

Row 11: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 15 sts. (15)

Row 12: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 14 sts. (14)

Row 13: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 13 sts. (13)

Row 14: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 12 sts. (12)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.
Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 18: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (16)

Row 19: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (17)

Row 20: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (18)

Row 21: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 18 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (19)

Row 22: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 19 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (20)

Row 23: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 20 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (21)

Row 24: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 21 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (22)

Row 25: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 22 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (23)

Row 26: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 23 sts, sl st in same space as first sc of row 1. (24)

Row 27: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 24 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (25)
You should be looking at the “right side” and ready to start again with hhdc across the top of the foot.

Switch back to the D/3.25mm hook…
Hhdc in the side of the st directly following. Hhdc in the next space (the same as the last sc of the heel). Hhdc in next 25 sts. Hhdc in next space (the same as the first sc of the heel). Hhdc in last sl st of the heel (29)

Leg:

Rounds 44 – 60 (or until desired height is reached): Hhdc in each at around. (54)

Round 61: Ch-1 (do not turn), * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Row 62: Ch-1, turn. * bphdc around next st, fphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around last, join to top of first bphdc with sl st.

Row 63: Ch-1, turn. * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Rows 64 – 67 (or as tall as you like): Repeat rows 62 & 63

Row 68: Ch-1, sc in each st around. Join with Invisible Join.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Men’s 12 – 13:

Toe:

With G/4mm hook…
Round 1: Ch-7, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, 5sc in last st. Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in the same as starting. Do not join, mark the first st of each round with st marker. (18)

Round 2: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in 6 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (22)

Round 3: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (26) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 4: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (30)

Round 5: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (34) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 6: Sc in each st around. (34)

Round 7: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 14 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (38)

Round 8: repeat round 6. (38) Sc one extra time to move the first stitch over by one before starting the next row.

Round 9: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (42)

Round 10: Sc in each st around. (42)

Round 11: * Sc in next st, 2sc in next, sc in next 18 sts, 2sc in next * repeat between * * one more time. (46)

Round 12: Sc in each st around. (46)

Switch to D/3.25mm hook…
Rounds 13 – 39: Hhdc in each st around. (46)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 13.

Round 40: * 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next. 2Hhdc in next st. Hhdc in next 20 sts. * repeat between * * one more time. (50)

Rounds 41 – 45: Hhdc in each st around. (50)

Hhdc until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from round 13.

Start the heel in rows:

Switch back to the G/4mm hook to make the heel…
Row 1: sc in 25 sts only. (25)

Row 2: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 24 sts. (24)

Row 3: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 23 sts. (23)

Row 4: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 22 sts. (22)

Row 5: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 21 sts. (21)

Row 6: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 20 sts. (20)

Row 7: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 19 sts. (19)

Row 8: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 18 sts. (18)

Row 9: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 17 sts. (17)

Row 10: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 16 sts. (16)

Row 11: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 15 sts. (15)

Row 12: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 14 sts. (14)

Row 13: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 13 sts. (13)

Row 14: Turn (do not chain), sk first st (place a marker here), sc in remaining 12 sts. (12)

Now we will use short rows to close (or “turn”) the heel.
Row 15: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 12 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (13)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 13 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (14)

Row 17: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 14 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (15)

Row 18: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 15 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (16)

Row 19: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 16 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (17)

Row 20: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 17 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (18)

Row 21: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 18 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (19)

Row 22: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 19 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (20)

Row 23: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 20 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (21)

Row 24: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 21 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (22)

Row 25: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 22 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (23)

Row 26: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 23 sts, sl st in same space as first sc of row 1. (24)

Row 27: Ch-1, turn, sc in all 24 sts, sl st in marked st 2 rows down. (25)

You should be looking at the “right side” and ready to start again with hhdc across the top of the foot.

Switch back to the D/3.25mm hook…
Hhdc in the side of the st directly following. Hhdc in the next space (the same as the last sc of the heel). Hhdc in next 25 sts. Hhdc in next space (the same as the first sc of the heel). Hhdc in last sl st of the heel (29)

Leg:

Rounds 45 – 60 (or until desired height is reached): Hhdc in each at around. (54)

Round 61: Ch-1 (do not turn), * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Row 62: Ch-1, turn. * bphdc around next st, fphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around last, join to top of first bphdc with sl st.

Row 63: Ch-1, turn. * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st.

Rows 64 – 67 (or as tall as you like): Repeat rows 62 & 63

Row 68: Ch-1, sc in each st around. Join with Invisible Join.

Herringbone Crochet Socks

I hope you love your new Herringbone Socks!

You might also enjoy these free patterns:

Toe-Tally Easy Crochet Socks: Free Unisex Crochet Pattern

Fast and Free Men’s Slippers Crochet Pattern

Sunday Ballet Slippers Free Crochet Pattern

Chunky Ballet Slippers Crochet Pattern (Kids Size Included!)

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43 Comments

  1. I'm having the same problem as Carol. I've watched the video tutorial multiple times and have redone the heel 4 times. As written for the Women’s 10 – 11 & Men’s 8 – 9 I end up on the wrong side at the end of row 23 and there is no additional space to slip stitch into and the first SC from row 1 has not been worked into yet. Any advice would be so appreciated! I can't figure out where I've gone wrong
    Reply
  2. This is a beautiful pattern and fun to make until you get to the heel. I’ve just completed my third sock and the heel, as written. just doesn’t seem right. Or I’m not as solidly intermediate as I thought, or some improvisation is to be expected. If a more experienced crocheted could weigh in on this, I would appreciate it. Thank you!
    Reply
    1. Hi Carol! I do have a video tutorial for a different pair of socks, but the heel is worked in the same way...maybe that would help? That video can be found here: https://youtu.be/yoocqG5wAwM?t=746
      Reply
  3. I'm having trouble finding this specific color of yarn. Where is everyone else finding their yarn for this pattern?
    Reply
  4. I'm having trouble finding this specific color of yarn. Where is everyone else finding their yarn for this pattern? I love the colors in this yarn and for some reason i haven't found it yet on amazon or google
    Reply
  5. I will pay you good money to do a video tutorial,lol. I love your tutorial they are so easy to follow and everything turns out great :)
    Reply
    1. I do have a video for the Toe-tally easy socks...the basic construction is the same. It can be found here if you would like to check it out: https://youtu.be/yoocqG5wAwM
      Reply
  6. You would have to be an Einstein to be able to follow a pattern to make a pair of socks. I would be crazy by the time I finished. I am not crazy enough to try and make a pair of socks. I cannot manage to go through the patterns and try and get it all straight. You must have nerves of steel to have figured all these different sizes and needles out and when to change them. My hat goes off to you. A doctor, with all their education, could not figure it all out as well as you have. No way am I going to try it. You are truly great at what you do............
    Reply
  7. Love these! They look so cozy! I've put together 50 free crochet patterns that use fingering weight yarn, and can be worn, and I'm including this pattern! Here is the collection: https://cre8tioncrochet.com/2022/12/50-free-fingering-weight-wearable-crochet-patterns.html
    Reply
  8. Hello I love these socks! But I have a question, I would like to know how I may be able to make them using acrylic medium #4. It's all I currently have and patience is not one of my virtues hahaha. I won't be able to make it to the store today. Any suggestions or similar patterns using the above yarn?? Thanks in advance.
    Reply
    1. Hi Leslie! I do have the Toe-tally Easy Socks pattern that uses worsted weight yarn. It can be found here: https://hearthookhome.com/easy-crochet-socks-free-unisex-crochet-pattern/
      Reply
  9. WOMEN’S 10 – 11 & MEN’S 8 – 9: I am very interested in making this pair of socks, however I want to make them toeless. I need something to cover the bridge of my foot at night, from getting cold... but I do not want full socks. Can you suggest which row I would start with to make them toeless? Or do you have another similar pattern that is toeless? Thank you for your help. I truly appreciate it.
    Reply
    1. Hi Christine! I think I would just start where the hook size changes to a 3.25mm hook and the Hhdc stitches start (I believe it would be round 13).
      Reply
  10. Hi! I'm looking at the pattern and I think I'm missing something. You end the heel with row 21, and then the leg starts at round 38... What do i do for the rows inbetween?
    Reply
    1. Hi! So we start the pattern with 37 rounds that will encompass the foot, then you do the heel rows which are numbered separately 1-21...after that you pick back up with the rounds at 38. Does that help?
      Reply
  11. I finished row 32, and now it says to “HHDC until you get back to the side of the sock, directly above the first stitch from row 11” I didn’t leave my stitch marker at the start of row 11 once I left that area, but since that’s the place where the stitches change, I was able to find it. If you flatten out the sock, I would say the sides would be obvious. But it doesn’t line up with the start of row 11, so I’m not sure where to complete the part above, in quotes. It would seem logical to stop at the side of the sock without worrying about the start of row 11. I have a photo if you care to email me with a reply. Thanks for any help.
    Reply
    1. Hello! If I used a stitch marker for the first stitch in each round for making the body of the foot, wouldn't I always end up directly above the first stitch in row 13? Thanks!
      Reply
  12. Love the short row heel! Always looking for good examples of it and you did a spectacular job of explaining it. When I followed the link here and saw your picture I thought, "of Course it's her," lol. Many links I click lead to your site. ❤ Couldn't agree more about those bumps against the feet, especially with hard floors!
    Reply
  13. Without having to order the yarn you used for this pattern, is there another type of yarn that maybe my local yarn stores may carry that I might purchase to attempt this project?
    Reply
  14. Hi, I want to start by thanking you for all the patterns you put up! I've made many of your designs and appreciate your tips and tutorials on new (or renewed) stitches and techniques. I'm working on my 3rd pair of this pattern and everytime I get to row 61, I second guess myself, read, and reread the pattern... Round 60 has an even number of stitches, (ex. 44). Then I start and end round 61 with fphdc. Ch 1 turn the next row starts and ends with bphdc, and so on right? Should my final (sc) row have 43 or 45 stitches? Thanks Natalie
    Reply
    1. I had the same problem as you! I noticed how Ashlea keeps referring to the Toe-Tally Easy Pattern, so I looked to that one for guidance. In the section on cuffs, she makes a decrease before starting the ribbing. so, that's what I did. I'm making a women's size 10. So, after my 50th hhdc of row 60, I hhdc2tog, _then_ started my cuff with the ch 1 and fphdc. That took me down to an odd number of stitches, and the pattern made sense again.
      Reply
  15. Made them and they're so cute! But can't get them over my heel. They were Fitting right up until I did the leg. Any tips on how to fix this in the future?
    Reply
    1. Hi Yolanda! Unfortunately, I do not have a video for this particular pattern, but I do have one for the Toe-tally Easy Crochet Socks which is very similar in design to these. That post/video can be found here: https://hearthookhome.com/easy-crochet-socks-free-unisex-crochet-pattern/
      Reply
  17. Do you by any chance have a video tutorial on turning the heel on the Herringbone sock pattern. I'm struggling to understand it. I am a bit of a newbie at this but love the pattern. Please help.
    Reply
    1. Hi Lara! Yes, in my Toe-tally sock pattern (which is similarly made to this) there is a video which can be found here: https://hearthookhome.com/easy-crochet-socks-free-unisex-crochet-pattern/
      Reply
  18. I just wanted to say thank you! Been eyeing this pattern for some and followed the link to the other socks with the video. Finally able to make a pair of socks!! Love the short row heel. My only question is do you have a pattern for wide feet or do you think the give in the yarn should be ok?
    Reply
    1. These don't work for wide feet, I've been trying for a while now and have to give up as it's tiring me. They seem very narrow.
      Reply
  19. Been trying to figure out how to work this for a couple days, lol! I'm stuck on Row 1! "Turn to work up the opposite side of the chain… sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in the same as starting." Is this saying turn my work to work in the 5sc we just made or work in the original chain?
    Reply
  20. Am about to start short rows to close ( or turn) heel of sock, but am confused by what you mean by Ch-1, turn, ......... at beginning of rows 12-21 . I’ve done ch-1 turn, at end of rows many times, but never at beginning. Please help - anyone - this is my first pr crochet socks !
    Reply
    1. Ch1, turn in the beginning is the exact same thing as the Ch 1, turn you're used to seeing at the end of a row. It's just written a bit differently is all. So just Ch 1, turn as if it was the end of a row :) hope I didn't make things more confusing. Best of luck!
      Reply
  22. Thank you for this pattern! I was wondering if I don't have a 3.25mm crochet, do you recommend going up to 3.5 or down to 3? Thanks!
    Reply
    1. Thank you for the pattern, I love it! I'm just confused, when you say "sc one extra time" in rounds 3,5 & 8, do you mean in the same st of the inc, or the next st, that is the first marked st of the round?
      Reply
      1. Hi! In the next stitch...we are just adding a stitch to shift the 1st stitch of the row over a bit. Hope this helps!
        Reply
        1. I'm getting a bit stuck here too, on round 3 my last 2 sc in one stitch before the "one extra time" keeps falling on the first stitch of the round. I've repeatedly started over, but I can't seem to get it right. I just want to make sure, would the "sc one extra time" fall on the first stitch of the same round, or the second one?
          Reply
        2. If we're adding a stitch to Round 5 in the the last stitch, shouldn't it be "3 sc" in the last stitch and shouldn't that make the stitch total for the Round 35?
          Reply