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Amigurumi Tips and Tricks

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What is amigurumi? Only the hottest trend in crochet, that’s what. Say it with me now: ami-goo-roo-me. (at least I think that’s how you say it?) Amigurumi refers to the crocheting of stuffed things; animals, toys, dolls, objects… the list goes on and on. New to amigurumi? You’ll want to read up on my favorite amigurumi tips and tricks!

 

Amigurumi Tips and Tricks

If you can crochet in rounds and you know the single crochet stitch then you can create beautiful amigurumi. The only difference between regular crocheting and creating amigurumi projects is sewing and stuffing, and there are a few tricks that will take your amigurumi up that extra notch. Amigurumi does not have to be intimidating, so let’s demystify it, shall we?

1. Start with the magic circle 

The magic circle is the best way to start working in rounds and especially in amigurumi. Instead of chaining 3 or 4 and joining to form a circle, the magic circle gives you the ability to cinch up that hole. This makes the top of the head and the ends of the limbs look so much cleaner. Just make sure to weave the tail through the first round of stitches to secure it as in this tutorial.

2. Use a smaller hook size than suggested on yarn label

Amigurumi needs to have tight stitches so that stuffing does not come out and so that the project looks more professional overall. I recommend going down at least one hook size than what is suggested on the yarn label. For example, if the yarn label suggests that I use an H/5.00mm hook, I would use a G/4.00mm hook instead.

3. Do not join every round

Amigurumi Tips Work in a Spiral

In order to keep your amigurumi heads, bodies, arms and legs as professional appearing as possible, do NOT join at the end of each round. Joining creates a line that will be clearly visible. Instead, work continuously without joining and keep track of your rows with stitch markers and/or running stitch markers.

4. Use stitch markers!

Stitch markers are not an option when crocheting amigurumi; they are a must! Because we are not joining at the end of each round we need to know exactly which stitch marks the beginning (and/or end) of each round.

You may decide to use a running stitch marker in addition to a regular stitch marker. Simply weave a different color strand of yarn back and forth (in and out of the project) as you complete each row.

5. Count your stitches 

While counting your crochet stitches is always a good idea, it is imperative in amigurumi. When you’re increasing and decreasing you need to know that you are on track after each and every row completed. It stinks, but we all know that ripping out stitches stinks worse.

6. Even increases

Amigurimi Counting Your Stitches

Increasing in crochet is as simple as placing two stitches where there would normally only be one. By spacing your increases out (evenly around) your project will be more round and professional in appearance. If following a pattern, increases should be calculated for you, just make sure to count as you go.

7. Use pantyhose to keep stuffing from poking out

How to use pantyhose in amigurumi crochet

Since amigurumi is typically on the tight side, it is rare that stuffing will start to work its way out. You can, however, throw your polyfil in knee-highs or other pantyhose to make 100% sure that it won’t. Heck, you could even buy different colored hose for different projects!

8. Use leftover yarn ends for stuffing 

Use yarn ends in amigurumi crochet

Ideally you’ll want to use polyfil for stuffing your amigurumi projects. If you don’t have stuffing on hand, however, you could totally use yarn ends! I keep a vase full of my yarn ends for exactly this reason and hey! Those are free. 😉

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9. Stuff evenly (more for feet, less for legs etc)

Amigurumi Stuffing Tips

While you do want to make sure you’re evenly stuffing your amigurumi, some parts I stuff more tightly than others. You’ll want to stuff feet and hands more than legs and arms for example, if you want them to be bendable. I always stuff the head a little bit more fully than the body as well, for added hug-ability.

10. Be consistent

While tension and maintaining gauge is always important no matter what you’re crocheting, you’ll definitely want to make sure you’re focused and on track when creating amigurumi. We want all four legs, or both arms, to be the same size, right? One thing I do that I find helpful is making both feet at the same time to make sure they are identical before moving on to the legs etc.

11. Make invisible decreases

Decreases when working in rounds can stick out like a sore thumb. Invisible decreases make the piece really POP! Invisible decreases are so much easier than they sound. Learn with this Invisible Decrease tutorial.

12. Use invisible join for fastening off

If possible use the invisible join when finishing off an amigurumi project. Instead of leaving a knot where you fastened off, the invisible join helps to keep each element as even as possible, which in turn helps to make sure you’re sewing the pieces on as beautifully (and seamlessly) as possible.

13. Leave long tails for sewing

This tip will come to you after sewing together several amigurumi bodies, arms, and legs, but I wish I had known from the start. Instead of reattaching the yarn to sew limbs to torsos, leave a long tail when you fasten off each limb so that you can use that to sew instead. Note that if you’re using the invisible join for fastening off, you’ll want to weave the end of the yarn as close to the top as possible for a more seamless transition when sewing.

14. Use tacks to decide where eyes go

The placement of the eyes, nose and mouth can make or break your amigurumi project. Use tacks – before you sew up the head! – to play around with the eye placement. Because safety eyes (see #15!) would distort the stitches if removed from a project (meaning you would be able to tell where they were placed before) you’ll want to make sure you’re placing them exactly where you want them, and the first time!

15. Use safety eyes

Safety Eyes for Amigurumi

Safety eyes are inserted through a stitch like a screw, then a washer is placed on the back so that it can not be pulled out. If a small child will be playing with this amigurumi (or do it just because, you never know where a toy will end up years down the line) make sure to use safety eyes instead of buttons for eyes. While buttons are an extreme choking hazard (especially if the child is teething) you can avoid that hazard by using safety eyes.

16. Use the lines!

An easy way to make sure you’re placing the arms, legs and ears evenly is to use the lines of your crochet! If you place one ear 5 rows down from the magic circle, make sure the second is also placed 5 rows down. You can also count how many stitches between the front and back which is particularly helpful if you’re making an animal with four legs.

Animal Bookmark Crochet Pattern

Ready to try your hand at amigurumi? I have a complete set of animal bookmarks that would be perfect to get your feet wet! Try Kenny the Koala, April’s Giraffe Baby, Webster the Elephantthe Adorable Pigthe Nerdy BookwormFreddy the Frogthe Bunny Rabbit or the Quacktastic bookmark.

Joker Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Not into reading? I’m sad, but you could also try amigurumi with my free Joker amigurumi pattern or my Love Heart pattern!

More crochet tips and tricks:

5 Tips for Changing Colors in Corner to Corner Crochet (C2C)
How to Keep Straight Edges in Crochet
Keep a Straight Seam When Crocheting in the Round
How to Make an Invisible Join in Crochet
Russian Join Tutorial for Crochet and Knitting
What to Do When You Forget Which Crochet Hook Size You Used

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19 Comments

  1. This was a very helpful always thought amigurumi was something totally different than crochet thank you for the helpful tips
    1. Re pattern ID 3387290872 I am having a problem with the uead round 19. I not understanding the increase info. What I am reading is 17 sc Inc sc x 3 (making 6) Inc 7sc (making 14) Inc sc x 3 (making 6) sc 16 making 59 stitches not 62. Can you please let me know where I am going wrong
  2. Help. I have finished all the parts of Frog Prince & now I am starting to assemble. I have had one go at attaching the head to the body but have undone that as I was not happy with the outcome. Am finding it a bit difficult knowing how far up on the lemon part of the head as you gradually come back to the front. I started at the back. Have made a lot of your beautiful patterns but just can’t get the angle of the head just right . I am my own worst critic but I want it for a gift & it has to be right. Thank you for any advice.
  3. Hi. I am currently stitching a llama from a pattern and I’m stuck. Could you help welt all? Last row I did was 18 stitches then pattern says: crochet 13ch (1 inc, 12sc, 18sc, 11sc, 1inc. Next row is 48 stitches. How do I get from 18 to 48?
    1. Could you tell me what kind of stitch the last row of 18 stitches was? Then you say it says to ch 13? (1 inc, 12 sc, 18 sc, 11sc, inc. to get 48 stitches? Where is the other side of the parenthesis?
  4. Thank you Ashlea for your tips and tricks, so helpful and you cover so much. I've always had so much trouble crocheting in the round and joining each round. Recently I did a pattern that didnt join and I found it so much easier, but I didnt realise I could make the choice! I am self taught and your tips have answered my questions and given me more confidence.
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  6. Ooh nerf darts... I have had that problem too and that sounds fantastic! How about lumps? My heads are never as beautiful and round as the pictures. There’s always a lump. Any secret tricks for that? (Definitely going to try the pantyhose in the next one too!) just not sure if the pantyhose alone will fix that lumpiness...
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  8. Thank you for these great tips. My problem is the necks always come out wobbly. Is there a trick to keep my animals from having a wobbly neck without making them thick necked?
    1. Hi Regina! I sometimes stick a Nerf dart (or something similar) in the neck area and stuff around it to help stabilize it.
    2. I find a layer or two of plastic canvas strips carefully trimmed & wrapped in pantyhose or white T-shirt fabric usually do the trick, plus they are washable. Stuff the top part of the head, insert the neck support, extending it into the body, and stuff around it firmly. A pair of locking forceps from a fishing department is a great tool. This method also works well with cloth doll necks.
  9. I have made a giraffe how do I keep the long neck from falling forward. Thank you for your help.
  10. Hi, Great tips for amigurumi. I’ve done a couple that were basic and simple patterns but recently tried a pattern that specifically said to join each round instead of working in rounds since this was needed for shaping. I found I had a weird looking stitch (slip stitch) each row and had to keep reminding myself this wasn’t an actual stitch in the row count. Do you have any tos and videos on how to do this do it is less visible? Thank you
  11. Hi. Nice patterns. Thank you for all the information on the Amigurumi. I would like to make a Big Head Doll for a sick person. I’m not able to get the pattern. Can you please help me. Thank you, Lorraine
  12. Thx for all instructions & advice, I really appreciate it! Have made one small brown teddy bear by guessing a lot! Instructions were vague or nonexistent!
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