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Painted Canyon Cardigan Crochet Pattern (size 2/3T)

ByAshlea

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A free toddler hoodie cardigan pattern? Absolutely! This pattern is a miniature version of the Painted Canyon Cardigan, and can be made using any worsted weight yarn. If you’re on the fence about making the adult size cardigan pattern, then try this smaller pattern to get your feet wet! 😉

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Toddler size Painted Canyon Cardigan

If you are brand new to crocheting cardigans, you’ll want to watch this series of videos. This is a Crochet Along that walks you through the entire process. Awesome! If you would like to make yours into a unicorn, head over to find the unicorn horn and ears patterns here.

Child Size Hoodie free crochet pattern*the above cardigan uses Mandala yarn in the Valkyrie colorway.

Toddler Painted Canyon Cardigan (size 2/3T) 

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn (Dove Heather and Avocado pictured)
-approx. 600 yards for size 2/3T
Stitch markers
Crochet hook in size J/6mm

Smiling child wearing a gray and green colorway example of the Painted Canyon Cardigan in size 2/3T in a park setting.

Gauge:

Make sure you CHECK YOUR GAUGE!

11 hdc and 10 rows in 4” square

Pattern Notes:

Fhdc = Foundation Half Double Crochet

Fphdc/Bphdc = Front Post (or Back Post) Half Double Crochet

Buttonholes are unnecessary. Any ⅜” buttons will fit through any opening on the edging should you choose to add them.

Want all of the child sizes together? Grab all of the child sizes in one printable file on Ravelry or Etsy! If you need help reading a crochet pattern, make sure you head over here and check out this detailed post.

Toddler size Painted Canyon Cardigan pattern

2/3T pcc

child size chart of the Painted Canyon Cardigan

Size 2/3T

Row 1: Fhdc-68. Alternately you could… Ch-69, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. (68)

Rows 2 – 32: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (68)

ARMHOLES:

Mark 20 stitches in from each side with stitch markers.

LEFT PANEL:

Row 33: Ch-1, turn, hdc in 20 sts only. (20)

Rows 34 – 46: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (20) DO NOT fasten off. Leave attached for starting hood.

CENTER PANEL:

Attach yarn in same st as stitch marker.
Row 33: Ch-1, hdc in same st and next (29) sts. (30)

Rows 34 – 46: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (30) Fasten off leaving ~20” tail for sewing later.

RIGHT PANEL:

Attach yarn in same st as stitch marker.
Row 33: Ch-1, hdc in same st and remaining (20) sts. (20)

Rows 34 – 46: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (20) Fasten off leaving ~20” tail for sewing later.

SEW SHOULDERS:

Fold front sides in and line up top edges to sew shoulders. Starting at the outside, use the long tails from “right panel” and “center panel” to sew using the Mattress Stitch.

Sew shoulders for 9 stitches per side. You should have 11 stitches left on each “front” and 12 stitches along the “neck” for a total of 34 stitches.

HOOD:

Where still attached from “left panel”.
Row 1: Ch-1, turn, hdc in 11 sts. Hdc2tog (using the last two sewn sts from shoulder seam). Hdc in 12 “neck” sts, hdc2tog (using the last two sewn sts from shoulder steam). Hdc in last 11 sts. (36)

Rows 2 – 19: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to end. (36)

Mark two centermost stitches. Move markers up each row or just line up decreases by eye.

Rows 20 – 24: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st to marker. Hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Fold right sides together and sew the top of hood using Mattress Stitch.

EDGING:

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Attach yarn in bottom right corner.
Row 1: Ch-1, hdc in each row end up to hood, hdc in peak of hood and down the other side, making sure to place one hdc per row end. (141)

Row 2: Ch-1, turn, hdc in first st. * bphdc around next st, fphdc around next st * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around second to last st, hdc in last. (141)

Row 3: Ch-1, turn, hdc in first st. * fphdc around next st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around second to last st, hdc in last. (141)

Row 4: repeat row 2 (and if desired, add additional edging rows in multiples of two)

Row 5: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st to end. Do not fasten off. (141)

Bottom edge: Turn work clockwise. 3sc in corner st, sc in each row end/st around entire bottom. 3sc in last /corner st. Fasten off with invisible join.

SLEEVES:

Looking at the INSIDE, attach yarn in bottom of armhole.
Row 1: Ch-1, hdc 28x evenly around opening. Join to top of first hdc with sl st. (28)

Rows 2 – 9: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in each st around. Join to top of first st with sl st. (28)

Row 10: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in all but last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Join to top of first st with sl st. (27)

Rows 11 – 12: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in each st around. Join to top of first st with sl st. (27)

Row 13: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in all but last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Join to top of first st with sl st. (26)

Rows 14 & 15: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in each st around. Join to top of first st with sl st. (26)

Row 16: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in all but last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Join to top of first st with sl st. (25)

Rows 17 & 18: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in each st around. Join to top of first st with sl st. (25)

Row 19: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in all but last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Join to top of first st with sl st. (24)

Rows 20 & 21: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in each st around. Join to top of first st with sl st. (24)

Row 22: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in all but last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Join to top of first st with sl st. (23)

Rows 23 – 25: Ch-1, turn. Hdc in each st around. Join to top of first st with sl st. (23)

Row 26: Ch-1, turn. * fphdc around first st, bphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Fphdc around last, join to top of first fphdc with sl st. (23)

Row 27: Ch-1, turn. * bphdc around first st, fphdc around next * repeat between * * around. Bphdc around last, join to top of first bphdc with sl st. (23)

Rows 28 – 29: Repeat rows 26 & 27

Row 30: Ch-1, turn, sc in each st around. Join with Invisible Join.

POCKETS:

Make two.
Row 1: Ch-12, hdc in second ch from hook and in each across (11)

Rows 2 – 8: Ch-1, turn, hdc in each st across. (11)

Row 9: Ch-1, turn, hdc in first st. * fphdc in next, bphdc in next * repeat between * * 3 more times, fphdc in next, hdc in last. (11)

Row 10: Ch-1, hdc in first st, * bphdc around next, fphdc around next * repeat between * * 3 more times times, bphdc in next, hdc in last. (11)

Row 11: Ch-1, sc in each st across. (11)

Rotate and sc in same st as last sc. Sc down row ends to corner. 3sc in corner. Sc across bottom edge. 3sc in corner. Sc up row ends. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Place bottom edge of pocket 12 rows up from bottom hem and 3 sts in (not including the edging sts). Sew into place. Repeat on other side.

Woohoo! You are done! Here are the other sizes of the Painted Canyon Cardigan:

Get the preemie and newborn sleep sacks here.
Get the infant size 6 month infant here.
Get the infant size 12 month here.
Get the child size 2/3T here.
Get the child size 4/5T here.
Get the child size 6/8 here.
Get the child size 10/12 here.
Get the ADULT sizes of this pattern (0 – 28W) here.

I hope you love this pattern as much as I do! Remember that this is the smaller size of the adult pattern, which is available here. Share photos of your little hoodie with me by tagging @HeartHookHome on Instagram and Twitter, and by sharing in the Heart Hook Home Crochet Community group on Facebook!

 

More crochet patterns from Heart Hook Home:

An Egg-cellent Apron: Free Crochet Pattern

Cold Shoulder Swimsuit Cover Up Crochet Pattern

Dragon Tears Fingerless Gloves Crochet Pattern

Hair Towel with a Twist {FREE Crochet Pattern}

Floppy Sun Hat Free Crochet Pattern

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202 Comments

  1. Hi I am currently in the middle of making this size 2/3T. What should the finished length be approximately? I can't see anywhere in the pattern (forgive me if I missed it). Keely
    Reply
      1. Thank you so much, that's literally what it was haha, then I shortened it a bit (my friends granddaughter is a teeny wean) but it's good to know I was on the right track ... I intend on making many of these, they are simply brilliant.
        Reply
      2. My HDC stitches are very tall. So based on your gauge, I should break for the arm holes at approx. 12.8 inches, correct?
        Reply
  2. Love this pattern!! I've been quite successful up until the sleeves. I've never sewn a spiral before and having trouble figuring out exactly how to line everything up and count as its going around. Do you have a tutorial just for the sleeves by any chance?! Thanks in advance!
    Reply
    1. Hi Amy! I'm so glad you are enjoying the pattern! I do not have a tutorial for just the sleeves, however, I do have a companion video for this cardigan. At the 22:40 minute mark is when I start the sleeves. Keep in mind, that this is not a tutorial...just a video to give you a general idea of how things are put together...and it can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=061ASkM1GB8 A tip for working in spirals would be to use a stitch marker to mark the beginning or end (whichever you prefer) of each row. This will help you keep track of your stitch counts.
      Reply
    2. Oh, I got it! Had to redo the sleeves a few times but I finally realized how you got 28 as the base chain and once that got locked down (and I properly used my row counters) it worked perfectly! :)
      Reply
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  4. It appears that in the photo of the two little girls that their sweaters have buttons. I'd love to make a way for my granddaughters to close their sweaters. How or wear are the button holes worked into the pattern?
    Reply
    1. Hi Sarah! No button holes were made. The buttons just slip through the edging stitches. Hope that helps!
      Reply
  5. HI Ashlea I've done 2 hoodies using your instructions to the letter. The front panels are way bigger than t back. Is this on purpose?
    Reply
    1. Hi! Yes, they are supposed to be, to account for the width and breadth of the body. When finished they should fit great!
      Reply
  6. Hi Ashlea, the link for 6 months is not working. Can you send me the link? The 2T/3T is the only one that opens. I really would like to make this for my last and only baby girl. I’d really appreciate it. Thank you in advance. Trista
    Reply
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  8. This pattern is amazing!! thank you for sharing Ashlea! I just finished the 2/3T one and Ive received so many compliments on it. Thank you!!!
    Reply
    1. I love the yarn in the toddler size two pattern, i have looked n looked gor it or something similar, do you have any suggestions?
      Reply
  9. Hi ....cannot find the free pattern for child size....not sure what I am doing or reading wrong...from South Africa....please HELP
    Reply
    1. Sandy, which child size are you looking for? This blog post has the 2/3T written up in it, with links to the other childrens sized listed at the end of the post.
      Reply
  11. I made the 12 month and it turned out adorable and now trying to make the 2/3T and also making an adult one for my daughter so her and my 2 granddaughters will have mommy and me matching cardigans. I"m having an issue with the 2-3 T overlapping a huge amount in the front when I fold the sides in and I have the correct number of stitches and my gauge is correct as well. The 12 month pattern did not do this at all, so I'm concerned with continuing the sweater til I know, is this correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!
    Reply
    1. I've got the same problem with too much overlap in the front. I haven't done the edging yet. I'm going to frog it & start again. I'm thinking 16sts for each front panel. Have done the 6 month size & love it.
      Reply
    1. Mandi, view the video if you haven’t yet. She is making that in the video using a cake. The video has many great tips!
      Reply
  13. Hi! I so want to make the 2/3T for my granddaughter; but I am new to crochet and don’t know if my measure is okay. My 66 fhdc is straight and even but only measures 22”; it has lots of stretch - to 28” or more. I don’t know how to get the stitches any bigger! Do you think I can proceed and be within tolerance? Thanks so much.
    Reply
    1. You can do it . It really is an easy pattern. Print it out . Cross it off with a highlighter as you finish the row . I found that to be easier. I you buy your yarn from a yarn shop they will help you
      Reply
      1. Thank you for your encouragement! I was able to complete the 2-3 size. It’s a bit big; an 18 month would have probably been about right. It is more of a knee-length coat with big sleeves; hoping it will be perfect for next fall. It was a good learning experience.
        Reply
    2. You can do it . It really is an easy pattern. Print it out . Cross it off with a highlighter as you finish the row . I found that to be easier. I you buy your yarn from a yarn shop they will help you
      Reply
  14. I am in the process of making this in the 2t/3t pattern. I just finished the hood and now im on to the sleeves but the holes are HUGE way bigger than 28stitches around. Im not sure how and what I did. I watched the video and read my pattern. Should I just close the hole to make it smaller?
    Reply
    2. I just finished this size and my arm holes 35 stitches way bigger then 28 i just crocheted 2 stitches together ( decrease) where the arm pit would be for 3 or 4 rows . It worked out perfectly.
      Reply
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  18. I’ve never made any clothing with Crochet before as I’ve slways been a knitter! This pattern was very easy to do & understand & ive made a lovely jacket & will be making plenty more too! So thankyou for a wonderful pattern & for kindly sharing it with us all xxx
    Reply
  19. Hi! This is my first time ever making any crochey clothing items and I'm trying to do it for my nephew for christmas. I'm all the way up to creating the shoulders and I'm getting confused how I'm suppose to fold the shoulders in to give the look that I need to finish the coat. Any tips or suggestions would be awesome!
    Reply
    1. You fold in at the armholes and stitch from the outside in 8 stitches. The rest is for the hood to be stitched on.
      Reply
      1. You did make the three sections for the 2 front pieces and the center piece for the back. This creates the armhole. I have also been making one today for my granddaughter.
        Reply
        1. I hate to ask because I'm still confused, do you have a picture of what it's suppose to look like when I fold it. I'm sorry to ask I'm still having a hard time.
          Reply
          1. No I don't. I am already to the edging. Sorry. Think of a sand castle where you have a base and then you put lets say bricks on it where they are touching at the bottom. You have your base and then you add three sections to it. Instead of making them separately and sewing them on later you stitch them on as you go. The center piece and the side pieces only touch in the same stitch. I don't know how else to say it. If you have more problems I will try to think of something.
          2. My email address is s_dclabaugh@q.com. Email me and maybe I can draw a picture for you and send it back. My phone doesn't take pictures.
  20. I printed it out and it seems to have cute some of the steps out. Do you mind sending me a version for the 2T/3T version? Also, question. I was reading through it and i noticed on the arms, starting at 33, HDC to end and then Rows 34-46 HDC to end... are you saying to change colors here? What is different in row 33? I guess i'm just making sure that it is just 33-46 1 HDC in each Stitch. Also, can you verify what fphdc and bphdc is? Is this where you alternate between the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch?
    Reply
    1. Rows 33-46 are crocheted in 3 parts. The 2 side pieces fold over for the front and the center piece is the back.
      Reply
  21. I love the pattern and I'm making it for my cousin's daughter (2t3t pattern) and I'm noticing a count is off. On the center back between the sleeves, it says 28 stitches, shouldn't it be 26? (66 base, 20 x 2 sleeves = 66-40= 26) I just want to make sure I'm counting right, I'm not a strong math person lol
    Reply
    1. Hi Krista, You'll start in the same stitch as the stitch marker for the first and end in the same for the last, so that is where the extra 2 stitches come into place. Hope that helps!
      Reply
  25. Hello, thank you for the wonderful/beautiful/amazing and well explained patterns! *-* I made the 6 months version, but I think my yarn was too thick so I guess now it's bigger than it should :'D now I'm at the 2/3T >:) but I wanted to ask you what awesome yarn you used in those pictures above? This blue-ish and green with these... specks? It looks so awesome Thank you for sharing and have a lovely day ~
    Reply
  27. Hi, I'm adoring this sweater! I read "J" hook (for 12m) and accidentally completed my entire sweater in a "G"! I used Baby Bernat 4. I have to say it is the sweetest newborn hoodie I've ever seen! It fits an 18" length baby doll ( my 1st grandchild isn't due till April 1). So I began the 2-3 toddler (using the correct hook). Why do the front panels overlap so much? Way more than the 12m. The numbers for 12m are 15Left/ 15Right at base & 28 center back (almost equal) however the 2-3 is 20Left/ 20Right and 28 center back (leaving the front with a huge overlap). FYI, This will be the 1st crochet item I've made without a Youtube tutorial so forgive me if this is a stupid question, LOL. Thanks so much.
    Reply
    1. I noticed the same. back length is the same for the 12 month and 2T. the first one I made I followed the pattern as written. I came out OK but did not like the way the front laid. due to the large overlap. I am on my second 2T and I have decreased the number of stitches to 17 for each side and 32 for the back plus the 2 extra stitches that are added by starting in the stitch where the marker is to make a total of 34 for the back. will let you know how it turns out.
      Reply
  28. Hi, I want to make this in 18 month size and I seen your other comments about going down a hook size with the 2/3t pattern. BUT I just realized that I bought size 5 barcelona yarn. Should i go down 2 hook sizes and use H?
    Reply
    1. Hi Justine! I wouldn't go down hook sizes if the yarn is bulky, it would turn out super warm. I would probably start the beginning row and measure against the sizing chart to be sure which size pattern to use. Does that make sense?
      Reply
  29. Hi Ashlea, I am thinking about making this for my daughter, she is a big 3 year old. I love the Mandala version but his is a lighter DK yarn. How would you a compensate this. Should I still use a 6mm hook or go down to match the instructions and go up a size? So in this case a 4/5T? Thank you
    Reply
    1. Hi! I would try a 5.5 mm hook and the 4/5t pattern. Definitely measure after a few rows to make sure you're on track.
      Reply
  32. Thank you!!!! Love this! With your great instructions & video it was super easy! I made it more my 2 year old daughter! Pictures on my fb page. www.facebook.com/countyroadcrochet
    Reply
  33. Hi there! Love love love the pattern. Any ideas how to alter for 18 months? I'm making for a friend who's daughter is just over a year and the 2/3T is going to be too big!! Any help is so appreciated!
    Reply
    1. Hey Hannah! You could make the 2/3t size and make it shorter and/or go down a yarn size, to a light weight/size 3 yarn, and then go down a hook size also. Mandala works great for this, and it would make a smaller cardigan. Hope that helps!
      Reply
  34. Want to make this for my nice but think 12m will be too small and 2/3T will be too big. Can you tell me how many half double crochet's to start with if I want to make 18 months? Do you think it would work out if I use 12 month size and use K crochet needle instead of J? Thanks
    Reply
  35. I want to make this, but I'm banned from buying more yarn. I saw you used mandala yarn for one. I have some of that. How would I compensate for using a 3 weight instead of 4? Thank you!
    Reply
  36. Is there a reason that you don't join on the sleeves because I tried the stitch marker and it was an epic fail. I had to start over slip stitching to my chain one. I can't do the stitch marker for som reason...
    Reply
  37. Hi, when making the 2t/3t size, how long should the foundation chain be? Should it be 24" like circumference chart or would it be shorter because of the edging?
    Reply
    1. It might be a tad bit shorter, yes. You can make the edging smaller or wider to accommodate though and that should help!
      Reply
  38. I'm stuck a bit at the center, where it says 28 stitches. If my math is right, shouldn't it be 26? 20+20 on the sides is 40, then the remaining stitches in the center at be 26? I just want to make sure I'm understanding. Thanks!
    Reply
    1. Hi! You'll want to go into the two stitches where the stitch markers already are. If you've gone past that point (with the 26 sts) it won't make a HUGE difference but you'll need to remember that when you dew the shoulders together. Hope that helps!
      Reply
    2. I had this same issue, wish I would have asked this question last night..... I altered that whole section because I thought it was a typo... oops
      Reply
    1. Hi Holly, You would need to create "pocket panels" like the armholes but further down and a bit farther apart. Does that make sense?
      Reply
  40. I love this pattern so much!! Can't wait to see my 1 year old cousin in it this fall. It whipped up so quickly too. Thank you for sharing!!
    Reply
  41. Really lovely pattern, thank you for sharing it with us! If you were to use the mandala yarn, is there a specific way of crocheting it/putting it together to make the color flow? Or does it happen organically?
    Reply
    1. I make it happen. If you watch the video it shows how I planned and controlled the colors. I just love it when they line up. :)
      Reply
  42. I don't know why I am having such a hard time with the part where u mark 20... I was wondering if u had pictures of ur work in progress I'm so lost lol thanks a bunch
    Reply
    1. Hi Jessica! I think this video will help, I've stopped it where you need to watch: https://youtu.be/061ASkM1GB8?t=5m18s
      Reply
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  44. Thank you so much for sharing your patterns! You do awesome work and should be patted on the back for all the special time and work that is put into your crocheting and sharing it with all the crocheting nuts. Have a wonderful Blessed day. I am so looking forward to seeing more of your work and patterns..........
    Reply
    1. Hi Brenda! As long as you're using a good sized button (I'd say 3/4" or 1") it should be able to fit through the other side of the edging. Definitely try it out before sewing them on, but that's what I did! Hope that helps.
      Reply
  46. Hiya Is the 12 month version of this pattern going to be available any time soon? I want to make them for my twin nieces for their first birthay (which is in November). If you can let me know when to expect it, that would be very much appreciated. Cheers for the fantastic patterns and all the work you put into Heart, Hook, Home :-) xx
    Reply
    1. Hi Margaret, I'm sorry, it was a hard decision not to include audio, but I would have had to do a voice over which I am not familiar with and if I had talked during the video and then speeding up it wouldn't have been audible anyhow. I was hoping the captions would explain.
      Reply
  50. I have the egg apron crochet pattern. In sewing pockets are they just tacked at top or sewn all the way down each pocket
    Reply
    1. Hello Judy! I sew them the entire length of the pocket so that they don't touch and clack together. Hope that helps!
      Reply
      1. I see the instructions for making the pockets, easy enough. but where do you leave a opening on the front for the pockets?
        Reply